I am considering making my own crown moldings out of foam using a foam cutter. We want a "straight" model of molding so it should be possible to get the shape right. What I'm uncertain about is if the surface will be good enough to look nice. I was thinking of buying XPS300 or similar, since I imagine they have a better/finer texture. I haven't used polystyrene/foam crown moldings before, so I don't know what the surface is like on the moldings that are available for purchase.
Does anyone have experience with this? Can the surface of cut XPS be good enough to look nice as crown molding? Is "regular" foam (EPS) sufficient?
/Samuel
Does anyone have experience with this? Can the surface of cut XPS be good enough to look nice as crown molding? Is "regular" foam (EPS) sufficient?
/Samuel
Maybe off topic, but why don't you just take "ready-made" wooden strips?
There are many profiles to choose from.
There are many profiles to choose from.
That's a valid question, I think.KnockOnWood said:
We haven't managed to find any ready-made wooden molding in the design we want (reason 1).
Then I found a molding in the right model (I thought) in foam plastic, but it turned out to be too small; meaning the right model but in the wrong "scale". Before I noticed that the size was wrong, we started thinking that it might be a handy material for ceiling moldings. It's easy to cut, lightweight, and moldable for irregularities (reason 2).
Now that I've started contemplating making them myself, it's hard to let go of the idea (that's a bit of a hallmark for many of us who hang out on this forum?)(reason 3).
Since it's about ceiling moldings for almost the entire house, the cost of the saw becomes small (about 7-8kr/lpm). I estimate the other material costs to be around 3-5kr/lpm, so the total is still significantly lower than buying ready-made (reason 4).
Additionally, I get the opportunity to purchase a new tool that I haven't had before (reason 5).
That's what I'm worried about, and if it were ordinary cell foam (eps), the cells are so large that it would logically be a problem. However, when it comes to XPS, the cells aren't as large. It's even possible (according to a product description I found) to use sandpaper on XPS. In the product images https://www.conrad.se/?websale8=conrad-swe.01-aa&pi=821035&refKey=Rv_vHICQK, the surface is painted after cutting, but it's not possible to determine the finish quality.M mlkjhr said:
It won't turn out well, even if you have an exact jig to saw with, you'll
have to work a lot on the molding before it's suitable for installation.
You'll have to do a lot of sanding.
And you won't be able to make long pieces either, and getting many short pieces
to become long nice moldings is something I, unfortunately, don't believe in; there will be many joints.
Then it needs to be spackled and painted before there is any kind of finish.
I recommend finished moldings, a lot of work for nothing.
have to work a lot on the molding before it's suitable for installation.
You'll have to do a lot of sanding.
And you won't be able to make long pieces either, and getting many short pieces
to become long nice moldings is something I, unfortunately, don't believe in; there will be many joints.
Then it needs to be spackled and painted before there is any kind of finish.
I recommend finished moldings, a lot of work for nothing.
Know-It-All
· Västra Götaland
· 12 292 posts
The ones you can buy at e.g. Hornbach and Bauhaus are probably foiled?
Sure, it's certainly possible to do, but I think there's a risk that it will require some fiddling to achieve a good finish.
Sure, it's certainly possible to do, but I think there's a risk that it will require some fiddling to achieve a good finish.
What should the list actually look like?
Can you perhaps draw a profile with dimensions?
Can you perhaps draw a profile with dimensions?
Hello,
It should be like this one, but a bit larger.
http://www.moelven.com/se/Produkter...al/Produktguide---List/Taklist/Trapplist-078/
It might be necessary to order from a planing mill. There will still be orders for casings and baseboards, so the contact already exists. The biggest motivation for doing it myself is currently curiosity.
Oh, that was advanced, I've never seen a list like that actually.
I've personally stopped at swanhalslist, advanced enough for me
But I also think it will be difficult to mill by hand in foam.
But you can try with a small piece first, so it doesn't get too expensive.
But wouldn't it be possible to build it up with three strips of MDF board?
They are available in thicknesses up to 28 mm.
I've personally stopped at swanhalslist, advanced enough for me
But I also think it will be difficult to mill by hand in foam.
But you can try with a small piece first, so it doesn't get too expensive.
But wouldn't it be possible to build it up with three strips of MDF board?
They are available in thicknesses up to 28 mm.
Yes, in a way it's advanced, but it's just straight cuts. I haven't planned to rout the foam board, only to cut strips and glue them together.Wow, that's advanced, I've never seen such a list actually.
I've stopped at the swan neck list myself, advanced enough for me
But I also think it will be difficult to rout by hand in foam.
But you could try with a small piece first, so it doesn't get too expensive.
Still, wouldn't it be possible to build it up with three strips of MDF board?
They come in thicknesses up to 28 mm.
Good tip about MDF. I'll have to think about that. Thanks!
Can't any of these stair trims work as the base material?
http://www.listspecialisten.se/taklister.htm
http://www.listspecialisten.se/taklister.htm