Hi, I have a wall built with studs at an unknown distance, probably cc 60, and 10 mm chipboard as well as 45 mm honeycomb cardboard as insulation between the wall panels. It is an interior wall! Question: Is the cardboard usually glued to the panels? If I take down the panels to replace with plywood, how do I handle the insulation? Could there be load-bearing effects in the cardboard?
Thankful for any tips on this issue.
Best regards,
Magnus
Thankful for any tips on this issue.
Best regards,
Magnus
Grundstött
· Halland
· 28 345 posts
Yes, the corrugated cardboard layer is glued and stabilizes the wall, but it probably has hardly any sound-insulating function.
Compare with interior doors that often have the same construction, but with thinner outer layers in veneer or plywood.
I had similar walls in a house built by SIAB in 1969.
But do you have to remove the particle boards?
Can't you just put the plywood on top, with a bit of glue and screws?
Compare with interior doors that often have the same construction, but with thinner outer layers in veneer or plywood.
I had similar walls in a house built by SIAB in 1969.
But do you have to remove the particle boards?
Can't you just put the plywood on top, with a bit of glue and screws?
Thank you for the answer, suspected it was something like that unfortunately!
I probably have to remove it as I'm going to install a new kitchen there, took down the old one today, don't dare to hang wall cabinets on these walls.
And looking for studs but hard to find them suspect cc 120 on the studs now!
Thanks for all the tips!
I probably have to remove it as I'm going to install a new kitchen there, took down the old one today, don't dare to hang wall cabinets on these walls.
And looking for studs but hard to find them suspect cc 120 on the studs now!
Thanks for all the tips!
My house is also built in 1969 and according to information, the internal walls are not supposed to be load-bearing. Could this be correct? Especially concerning this wall! Considering taking it down in sections and framing up the removed part before taking down a new section! The wall is 310 cm.
I'm short on space and not sure if it will work out, it would mean I have to cut the ceiling plasterboard to place the overlapping wave-tight rule that the joists are secured to at the top! Don't know what's best!
Grundstött
· Halland
· 28 345 posts
Right thinking!Jonatan79 said:
Because if the other side of the wall doesn't need addressing, it seems unnecessary to tear down the "backside" as well.
By the way, there were wall cabinets hanging on my sandwich wall from 1969.
And when we replaced the cabinets, including the top cabinets around 2005, it was perfectly fine to hang the new cabinets on the same wall.
The only reason I discovered the wall construction was because I made a hole to add an electrical outlet for a new freezer.
Aha, I was thinking of just tearing down one side and framing from that side.
The idea was to leave the other side untouched and glue the new studs to the existing wall to stabilize it against the new studs that are installed from the other side, and screwed against nailing plates and top/bottom plates!
The idea was to leave the other side untouched and glue the new studs to the existing wall to stabilize it against the new studs that are installed from the other side, and screwed against nailing plates and top/bottom plates!
After consulting a carpenter, there will be a solution which is a variation on your suggestions.
15 mm construction plywood p30 will be glued and screwed to the existing wall with 6 mm repair plasterboard on top of that.
Thank you for all the help.
Best regards,
Msgnus
15 mm construction plywood p30 will be glued and screwed to the existing wall with 6 mm repair plasterboard on top of that.
Thank you for all the help.
Best regards,
Msgnus
Grundstött
· Halland
· 28 345 posts
Good with a simple solution.
Good luck with the new wall and kitchen!
Good luck with the new wall and kitchen!
Thank you
Click here to reply
