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18 replies
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18 replies
Correct ceiling height indoors
Page 1 of 2
We are going to build a house with timber framing, and I have been thinking about the ceiling height indoors.
We want a ceiling height of 250 cm.
The sheet material is usually 250 cm.
But if we build the walls so that it becomes 250 cm from the concrete slab to the roof trusses, we will have an indoor ceiling height of about 244 cm, which is not 250 cm.
Am I thinking wrong here?
I have not found any construction example that shows the entire construction with dimensions. Träguiden has many good examples, but it's mostly details.
We want a ceiling height of 250 cm.
The sheet material is usually 250 cm.
But if we build the walls so that it becomes 250 cm from the concrete slab to the roof trusses, we will have an indoor ceiling height of about 244 cm, which is not 250 cm.
Am I thinking wrong here?
I have not found any construction example that shows the entire construction with dimensions. Träguiden has many good examples, but it's mostly details.
One must thank you for a quick reply! 
But with boards at 250 cm, there isn't much to screw into on the sill and wall plate. But it will have to do.
But with boards at 250 cm, there isn't much to screw into on the sill and wall plate. But it will have to do.
Last edited:
Tomture61
Self-builder
· Född i Luleå
· 6 515 posts
Tomture61
Self-builder
- Född i Luleå
- 6,515 posts
No plastic, the moisture should escape from the house, as they built in the past.
Vapor retarder, not a vapor barrier. Cellulose insulation can absorb moisture, unlike stone wool/glass wool.
The electrician should run their wiring in the studs before the panels are put up.
The 70s building techniques are outdated.
Vapor retarder, not a vapor barrier. Cellulose insulation can absorb moisture, unlike stone wool/glass wool.
The electrician should run their wiring in the studs before the panels are put up.
The 70s building techniques are outdated.
I currently have two constructions underway with similar construction, but have chosen to install a sparse panel on the inside, partly so that the electrical pipes do not go through the vapor retarder and partly to avoid the pressure from the insulation against the panels, doubtful if they will remain flat in the long run.Mickeviking said:No plastic, the moisture should go out of the house, as they built in the past.
Vapor retarder, not a vapor barrier. Cellulose insulation can absorb moisture, unlike stone wool/glass wool.
The electrician can run his cables in the studs before the panels are put up.
70s construction techniques are out.![]()
According to the insulation guy, it shouldn't be a problem. He has been building this way for 20 years now without complaints.larsbj said:Currently, I have two construction projects similar in design but have chosen to place a slatted panel on the inside, partly so that the electrical conduits do not go through the vapor barrier and partly to prevent pressure from the insulation against the boards, doubtful if they will stay flat in the long run.
But there should be a gap between the studs and boards, of course. Having the electrical conduits go through the vapor barrier is not an issue.
Against better judgment one could say, don't trust the person selling the material.Mickeviking said:
Furthermore, you lose in airtightness by having electrical conduits through the vapor barrier.
Yes, exactly, you're right about that.larsbj said:
I'll have to think about the airtightness. But the guy who "sells" the material builds himself this way, and I got in touch with him on the recommendation of several people who have hired him.