We are going to build a house with timber framing, and I have been thinking about the ceiling height indoors.
We want a ceiling height of 250 cm.
The sheet material is usually 250 cm.

But if we build the walls so that it becomes 250 cm from the concrete slab to the roof trusses, we will have an indoor ceiling height of about 244 cm, which is not 250 cm.

Am I thinking wrong here?

I have not found any construction example that shows the entire construction with dimensions. Träguiden has many good examples, but it's mostly details.
 
You're thinking correctly, the frame needs to be 2560 in your case. The posts will then be 2470 with 45 sill and top plate.
 
  • Like
Mickeviking
  • Laddar…
One must thank you for a quick reply! :)

But with boards at 250 cm, there isn't much to screw into on the sill and wall plate. But it will have to do.
 
Last edited:
Mickeviking said:
Thanks for the quick response! :)

But with boards at 250 cm, there's not much to screw into on the sill plate and top plate. But it'll have to do.
But shouldn't you have some layer on the inside? Like a 45mm insulation layer or perhaps furring strips?
 
K
You primarily screw into the wall studs..
 
larsbj said:
But don't you want an internal layer? Maybe a 45mm installation layer or cross battens?
No, no installation layer. It will be Masonite beams with 240mm light studs and loose-fill insulation (cellulose).
 
Tomture61
Mickeviking said:
No, no installation layer. It will be Masonite beams light studs at 240mm and loose fill insulation (cellulose).
It is always good (best) to have an installation layer for electricity, Masonite beams - plastic - horizontal studs - panels
 
  • Like
Kallebo
  • Laddar…
No plastic, the moisture should escape from the house, as they built in the past.
Vapor retarder, not a vapor barrier. Cellulose insulation can absorb moisture, unlike stone wool/glass wool.
The electrician should run their wiring in the studs before the panels are put up.
The 70s building techniques are outdated. :)
 
Mickeviking said:
No plastic, the moisture should go out of the house, as they built in the past.
Vapor retarder, not a vapor barrier. Cellulose insulation can absorb moisture, unlike stone wool/glass wool.
The electrician can run his cables in the studs before the panels are put up.
70s construction techniques are out. :)
I currently have two constructions underway with similar construction, but have chosen to install a sparse panel on the inside, partly so that the electrical pipes do not go through the vapor retarder and partly to avoid the pressure from the insulation against the panels, doubtful if they will remain flat in the long run.
 
  • Like
Joak and 1 other
  • Laddar…
larsbj said:
Currently, I have two construction projects similar in design but have chosen to place a slatted panel on the inside, partly so that the electrical conduits do not go through the vapor barrier and partly to prevent pressure from the insulation against the boards, doubtful if they will stay flat in the long run.
According to the insulation guy, it shouldn't be a problem. He has been building this way for 20 years now without complaints.
But there should be a gap between the studs and boards, of course. Having the electrical conduits go through the vapor barrier is not an issue.
 
Mickeviking said:
According to the insulation guy, it shouldn't be a problem. He's been building this way for 20 years now without complaints.
.
Against better judgment one could say, don't trust the person selling the material.

Furthermore, you lose in airtightness by having electrical conduits through the vapor barrier.
 
Mickeviking said:
But there should of course be gaps between the studs and the panels. The fact that the electrical conduits go through the vapor barrier is not a problem.
And with the gaps, it's not an issue that the panels don't extend between the sill and the top plate.
 
  • Like
Mickeviking
  • Laddar…
larsbj said:
And with the glesen there, it's not a problem that the boards don't reach between the sill and the wall plate.
Yes, exactly, you're right about that. :)

I'll have to think about the airtightness. But the guy who "sells" the material builds himself this way, and I got in touch with him on the recommendation of several people who have hired him.
 
K
If you are going to have sparse paneling between boards and vapor brake, you must run the electricity along these, and then you have an installation layer, albeit much narrower than usual. ..
 
Kallebo said:
If you are going to have sparse paneling between boards and vapor barrier, you must run the electricity along these, and then you have an installation layer, albeit much narrower than usual. ..
Must and must... :) Yes, it becomes narrower, but actually fully sufficient.
 
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.