what a challenge you're giving me 
want to be able to lay tiles on a wooden joist floor,
2 rooms will have a span of about 3 meters, so it should work with cc600 with 45x220 without any problem for deflection?
then I want, of course, to lay tiles on this as cheaply as possible but still avoid seeing it crack.
then I have the kitchen, which is a bit larger, about a 4.5-meter span, here the same tiles and the same floor height as in the dining room with a 3-meter span are needed, so the substrate should be the same as the dining room, so here perhaps you need some reinforcement, or tighter cc between the floor joists...
want to be able to lay tiles on a wooden joist floor,
2 rooms will have a span of about 3 meters, so it should work with cc600 with 45x220 without any problem for deflection?
then I want, of course, to lay tiles on this as cheaply as possible but still avoid seeing it crack.
then I have the kitchen, which is a bit larger, about a 4.5-meter span, here the same tiles and the same floor height as in the dining room with a 3-meter span are needed, so the substrate should be the same as the dining room, so here perhaps you need some reinforcement, or tighter cc between the floor joists...
Yes, then it'll be casting a slab then... Not completely out of the question actually and maybe not much more expensive or complicated...
Checked with my underfloor heating provider but they refer to the tile manufacturer to know what underlayment is required..
Strange maybe but...
Especially when you don’t know which tiles you want yet.. Might be imported from Poland where "bakan" is probably enough as a substrate.. Who knows
Strange maybe but...
Especially when you don’t know which tiles you want yet.. Might be imported from Poland
where "bakan" is probably enough as a substrate.. Who knowsYes, it is possible... do you have to use self-leveling compound then? I would like to avoid it since it's so darn expensive... at least when you calculate with Byggmax prices... but it can hardly be cheaper if you hire a company to do it...
Will buy cheap tiles from a Polish acquaintance,
Summer cottage with underfloor heating in that case.. Have no plans to move from here yet anyway
Summer cottage with underfloor heating in that case.. Have no plans to move from here yet anyway
So it's a residential building..
But I have to tear up all the floors and plan to install underfloor heating..
Still want to opt for a budget version.. Even a 200:- difference per m2 adds up in the end...
But I have to tear up all the floors and plan to install underfloor heating..
Still want to opt for a budget version.. Even a 200:- difference per m2 adds up in the end...
If you install a parquet floor, underfloor heating isn't as important since you have a träbjälklag. Or a nice furugolv screwed into the floor joists. Then you can use radiators instead and keep the costs much lower. It costs if you want to stay on top
I have buried geothermal pipes, so it will become geothermal heating...
Then underfloor heating is preferable...
I want tiles in the hall and kitchen, but I had no idea planning the base would be so problematic
Then underfloor heating is preferable...
I want tiles in the hall and kitchen, but I had no idea planning the base would be so problematic
Like when I was going to drain at home, I talked to five different diggers and got five different answers on how it should be done. Unfortunately, there is not just one method but several, more or less or equally good But I would avoid hiding the underfloor heating under a lot of boards. Good luck
But I would avoid hiding the underfloor heating under a lot of boards. Good luck Hehe yes that's the worst part... That there are so many different "rights"
I'm considering thinning and then one or two layers of plasterboard, maybe regular cheap plasterboard.
And then tiles... We're not talking about wet rooms.
I'm considering thinning and then one or two layers of plasterboard, maybe regular cheap plasterboard.
And then tiles... We're not talking about wet rooms.