Since it looks like I have to tear up all the floors on the ground floor by the summer due to house fungus, one can start thinking about how to rebuild it, It is a log house with a chimney in the middle, kitchen, hall, dining room, and living room, so a total of 4 rooms. I've thought about laying tiles in the kitchen and hall and maybe wood flooring or parquet in the dining room and living room, and I will also lay 20mm waterborne underfloor heating in all rooms. I now imagine that I will frame up with 45*220 or 45*195 cc 60 and build like a box in each room, the span will be at most about 4.5 meters. Will it work without the floor flexing? Then I have thought about laying, for example, a 20*120 under the rule where you can lay blind bottom boards or alternatively sheathing in each compartment, depending on which is cheapest. Then a windbreaker paper that goes up roughly 10cm on the beams to prevent draft and then fill the compartments with insulation boards. Then slatted panels 22x70 or similar with heating pipes and plates. Then screw 22mm floor chipboard. Then optional wood flooring. Where I plan to put tiles, there should probably be a gypsum board on the chipboard so it becomes "dead."
Will this work? Are there simpler/cheaper ways to do it? I will have to spend a lot of personal time to reduce the cost, for example cutting sheathing for the blind bottom.
Please share your opinions! Best regards
Will this work? Are there simpler/cheaper ways to do it? I will have to spend a lot of personal time to reduce the cost, for example cutting sheathing for the blind bottom.
Please share your opinions! Best regards
What I suspected... Maybe one can place a supporting 145x45 across under these to divide the construction and have them stand on some sort of plinths..
Or should one have tighter cc than 60 if it is more cost-effective
Or should one have tighter cc than 60 if it is more cost-effective
Today, they estimate 200 kg per square meter. It will work with 45*220. So it depends on how sensitive you are to deflection.
If you do that, there are no problems. Or use closer joist spacing, if you go with cc 450, you'll manage with 45*220 C30.
If you do that, there are no problems. Or use closer joist spacing, if you go with cc 450, you'll manage with 45*220 C30.
Will it be possible to lay tiles that don't crack on 45x220 with 4.50 lengths?
Hmm so you think no one wants to guarantee laying tiles on a wooden joist?
I was also considering, in the rooms where the span exceeds 4100, placing a concrete plinth in the middle and then kotla from there to the wall, that should be quite stable, but maybe use a smaller dimension than the joists to avoid thermal bridges...
How do my thoughts seem otherwise? Is that how you build?
And I also thought of starting to frame from both long sides so you get the "narrowest" cc measurement in the middle for increased stability, because I find it hard to believe it matches cc600 without some sections being smaller.
I was also considering, in the rooms where the span exceeds 4100, placing a concrete plinth in the middle and then kotla from there to the wall, that should be quite stable, but maybe use a smaller dimension than the joists to avoid thermal bridges...
How do my thoughts seem otherwise? Is that how you build?
And I also thought of starting to frame from both long sides so you get the "narrowest" cc measurement in the middle for increased stability, because I find it hard to believe it matches cc600 without some sections being smaller.
Bump
I don't think you will get a craftsman to provide a 10-year guarantee that the grout won't crack on a wooden joist with CC 60 and a span of over 4 meters if you don't pour concrete.thestrut said:
What you should have under the joists I would take impregnated, and don’t waste by making a bottom of raw wood, use asphalt board instead.
You don't want more than one section that isn't cc 60 when you lay floorboards because they are always joined on the joists, and if you place that section in the middle, there will be a joint in the middle of the entire floor, which is not ideal if you are going to have tiles.
Okay, but then it's the same for everyone that there's no warranty on tile floors with wooden joists.
I've received strict orders not to have any pressure-treated items in the floor construction, so I'll stick to that.
Since I'm dealing with hussvamp, it should also be treated with Boracol.
I'm going to check prices on asphalt boards vs raw planks, if the difference isn't too much, I might go with the board..
Good input regarding the joining of the chipboard, but I think I can join them anywhere since I intend to have a sparsely spaced panel 22x70 with underfloor heating coils under the chipboard. Not sure if it's the most economical way to install underfloor heating, but these are my thoughts for now, significantly cheaper than slotted chipboards anyway.
There are 2 rooms with spans over 4.1 meters; is it a crazy idea to place an adjustable plinth in the middle and cross bracing between the floor joists across the entire room? It can't hurt, at least? And then I thought of using a slightly lighter dimension for the bracing, like 145, so you can fit a 45 insulation between the subfloor and the bracing thing, whatever it's called.
Or are there other ways to handle potential flex that doesn't cost a fortune like laminated wood?
Best regards
I've received strict orders not to have any pressure-treated items in the floor construction, so I'll stick to that.
Since I'm dealing with hussvamp, it should also be treated with Boracol.
I'm going to check prices on asphalt boards vs raw planks, if the difference isn't too much, I might go with the board..
Good input regarding the joining of the chipboard, but I think I can join them anywhere since I intend to have a sparsely spaced panel 22x70 with underfloor heating coils under the chipboard. Not sure if it's the most economical way to install underfloor heating, but these are my thoughts for now, significantly cheaper than slotted chipboards anyway.
There are 2 rooms with spans over 4.1 meters; is it a crazy idea to place an adjustable plinth in the middle and cross bracing between the floor joists across the entire room? It can't hurt, at least? And then I thought of using a slightly lighter dimension for the bracing, like 145, so you can fit a 45 insulation between the subfloor and the bracing thing, whatever it's called.
Or are there other ways to handle potential flex that doesn't cost a fortune like laminated wood?
Best regards
Sounds like a good idea with cc 450, in the 2 rooms with longer spans than 410,
But then the simplicity with subfloor boards adapted for cc600 falls away, so tongue and groove boards might work just as well.
But then the simplicity with subfloor boards adapted for cc600 falls away, so tongue and groove boards might work just as well.
Yeah, I've thought about that.. But it might be more expensive per m2, I would think?
But what are the pros and cons of a slab compared to a wooden framework?
But what are the pros and cons of a slab compared to a wooden framework?
I would not recommend asfaboard in the subfloor; it usually becomes a hammock over time. Oil-hardened 9mm Masonite is commonly used as a subfloor board. It is very rigid and pre-cut to a width for 60 cm centers.
If you are worried about flex, you can "cross-brace" the floor. You do this by placing a cross of, for example, 45x45 in the middle of each section. Alternatively, you can inset a standard beam, which is easier but perhaps not quite as effective. This will stabilize the floor.
Tiles should not be a problem, but then I would do things a bit differently. I would skip the battens and plates and lay the piping on the chipboard, then use self-leveling compound on the floor with reinforcement. The right thickness of the self-leveling compound is important to prevent cracking.
But if you have the opportunity to insert a beam in the middle, it wouldn't be a bad idea
If you are worried about flex, you can "cross-brace" the floor. You do this by placing a cross of, for example, 45x45 in the middle of each section. Alternatively, you can inset a standard beam, which is easier but perhaps not quite as effective. This will stabilize the floor.
Tiles should not be a problem, but then I would do things a bit differently. I would skip the battens and plates and lay the piping on the chipboard, then use self-leveling compound on the floor with reinforcement. The right thickness of the self-leveling compound is important to prevent cracking.
But if you have the opportunity to insert a beam in the middle, it wouldn't be a bad idea