Hello. I have a sunroom where the concrete floor is uneven and slanted. I've looked into leveling solutions, but they seem expensive...
It must be fine if I use regular timber to create a framework? Either setting them on adjustable feet and then securing the frame to the floor... I plan to just lay a carpet on top of this, no Tarkett etc.
have seen many variations on elevated floors, unfortunately, you have to be somewhat of a moisture expert to avoid mistakes in many of these solutions, I can only give you the tip that if you lay joists against the floor and then lay a chipboard on top of this without installing any form of mechanical ventilation, there will be mold there at some point, but you can be lucky.
many companies that dry houses have solutions for making elevated floors work in basements and the like, should work here too, you think that nivell is expensive, so I assume you plan to do everything yourself? but the best solution might be to bring in someone to level the floor so it becomes flat, and then you can lay loose carpets that can be removed in the winter.
I have seen many variants of raised floors, unfortunately, you have to be somewhat of a moisture expert to not make mistakes in many of these solutions. I can only give you the tip that if you place studs on the floor and then put a chipboard on it without installing some form of mechanical ventilation, there will be mold there at some point – but you might get lucky.
Many companies that dry houses have solutions for making raised floors work in basements and similar spaces, should work here too. You say that nivell is expensive, so I assume you're planning to do everything yourself? But the best solution is probably to bring in someone who can level the floor so it's even, and then you can place loose rugs that can be removed in winter.
Thanks for the response.
Yes, moisture can certainly get in... this conservatory is on the upper floor... so the room is not in the basement?
Anyone else who can offer tips?
why not just use leveling compound, must be the least possible effort, or is it so uneven that it would be too high a load(due to the weight of the leveling)?
Yes, it would have been easy but as I said, I think it would be too heavy with self-leveling compound... So I'll probably end up framing with 45x195 and then adding chipboard... The room is on the upper floor so moisture shouldn't be a big problem...
I advise against your solution, but if you don't plan to switch to a better, more expensive one, incorporate some details that can help you if problems arise.
It's not external water that's your problem in this case, but condensation; it likely gets warm when the sun shines on the windows, and at night it gets cold, creating the possibility for condensation, which usually goes downward. Make sure you can connect ventilation in the floor, create a hatch so you can inspect this, preventing it from becoming a smell (mold), allowing you to discover it in time and implement an intervention to dry it out before you have to tear everything down.
Make sure to have an air gap of at least 45 mm under the beam against the concrete so you can get air circulation going if needed.
Now I'm with you... you're right, there will be at least 45mm between the stud and the concrete floor.
Would it help to install an exhaust vent under the new floor? Approximately in line with the concrete floor?
Or should I have mechanical ventilation instead? Would an exhaust vent be beneficial?
Install a ventilated plinth in the far part of the room so air can easily enter there, then vents in the facade that align with the concrete so you can put a fan in the hole and thereby achieve air exchanges in the room and dry out the studs. Alternatively, you can install a Pax fan as a more permanent solution with humidity control, I don't know how well these are rated, but if they are IP 63, it will most likely work. This should be connected to its own switch so it can be turned off if you want to sit in the space since you might not want a fan humming under the floor.
Now the construction will start soon. Planning to place a ledger against all walls and then the beams...but now I noticed that there are quite few studs inside the walls. No cc60 here anyway...studs are present but I thought there would be more, which screw is best? French screw or long wood screw? Feel free to give tips...
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