I'm a bit of a novice in this area, but I'm wondering if you can or should place regular 45x195 directly on Lekablock with some capillary breaker in between?
It's a floor with 175mm of insulation.
It feels a bit odd with non-impregnated material directly on Lekablock.
I can't and am not allowed to dig down pillars, unfortunately, as the cabin has to be "movable". It stands on leased land.
Best regards, Thomas
It's a floor with 175mm of insulation.
It feels a bit odd with non-impregnated material directly on Lekablock.
I can't and am not allowed to dig down pillars, unfortunately, as the cabin has to be "movable". It stands on leased land.
Best regards, Thomas
That is also how you typically build. Masonry foundation, then sill paper, and sill.
Ok.. Yeah, why not... ☺️
I'm completely new to building cabins.. I've done a lot of work with decking and similar.. But a regular rule can probably handle more than one might think.
Difference between c24 and c12 or whatever they're called..?
I'm completely new to building cabins.. I've done a lot of work with decking and similar.. But a regular rule can probably handle more than one might think.
Difference between c24 and c12 or whatever they're called..?
Common construction timber can withstand being "outside," but not having water absorbed into it. Therefore, we use sill paper or foundation insulation paper.
https://www.bauhaus.se/grundisoleringspapp-yep-2500-0-125x15m.html
Note that it comes in several widths to fit different foundation widths. The simplest 125mm width should work well for you. Place a strip that covers the entire top of each leca block and place the sill on it.
https://www.bauhaus.se/grundisoleringspapp-yep-2500-0-125x15m.html
Note that it comes in several widths to fit different foundation widths. The simplest 125mm width should work well for you. Place a strip that covers the entire top of each leca block and place the sill on it.
If the sill is 45 x 195, probably lying down, then 125 mm sill insulation might be too small. Then perhaps this one would fit better: Sill paper 200mmx15m, foundation insulation https://www.byggmax.se/gjutning-och...ing/fuktisolering-av-husgrund/syllpapp-p17065tommib said:
So it's a simple cabin of 45 square meters with 195 standing with 145 insulation. I build a regular framework as if I were building decking. And then erect finished trusses in sections as walls.
Why would one have the sill lying down?
Furthermore, aren't the cinder blocks usually 12 cm (even though 15 exists)? In any case, the point is to have sill paper in between, so that it covers the entire width.
Furthermore, aren't the cinder blocks usually 12 cm (even though 15 exists)? In any case, the point is to have sill paper in between, so that it covers the entire width.
I appreciate the help. Quick answer on how to proceed.tommib said:
Have probably scoured the net for a lot of information. But it's hard to find when you don't exactly know what to look for. Many new terms about details and handling.
Is there a glossary for dummies on this subject?
Love working with my hands and creating.
Building a frame with concrete blocks and creating a framework. At the bottom of each stud, I place a supporting lath and boards on it and then fill up with insulation. Then lay flooring with, for example, OSB or similar. Everything right to the edge. Then I build the walls and place them on top of the floor in sections for ease.
The cabin will be 5x8 meters. How many blocks should you have? 12 pieces?
4 on the front long wall and 4 on the rear, and then 4 on the beam underneath... Should be enough.
The cabin will be 5x8 meters. How many blocks should you have? 12 pieces?
4 on the front long wall and 4 on the rear, and then 4 on the beam underneath... Should be enough.
The building method is called platform building. It's a smooth and quick method. It's unfortunate if one or more "plinths" sink. I would probably scrape up the ground a bit and cast plates to distribute the weight. A holiday home the size you are planning to build will weigh 10-20 tons depending on the method you plan to use. It will be one ton per leca block approximately.
The downside of platform building is that the floor material extends through the wall all the way to the air gap/outer paneling. It becomes a thermal bridge.
If bad luck strikes, like a tree falling on the house or horses in the nearby field eating up the eaves so that rain goes directly into the wall (a damage I've seen). Then the floor and joists are also damaged in a platform building.
Regards, Findus
The downside of platform building is that the floor material extends through the wall all the way to the air gap/outer paneling. It becomes a thermal bridge.
If bad luck strikes, like a tree falling on the house or horses in the nearby field eating up the eaves so that rain goes directly into the wall (a damage I've seen). Then the floor and joists are also damaged in a platform building.
Regards, Findus
I probably would have taken a few more. Our "friggebod" with the same construction stands on 9 lecablock if I remember correctly and it is 5x3 m. Five blocks per bearing beam is probably good when they are that long. Yes, it should work with fewer, but more distribute the load better and reduce problems if a block settles.
What kind of ground is it underneath? How big is the risk for settlements?
What kind of ground is it underneath? How big is the risk for settlements?