I would gladly receive comments regarding the shed I am planning. I want to keep it as simple and economical as possible while still being safe/proper enough.
5x8 m external dimensions
3 m high walls
95x45 vertical studs/base/top plate cc 120 (insulation will never be considered)
A couple of "diagonal braces" per wall to prevent the wall from buckling
70x45 externally mounted horizontal nailers (partly to nail the panel and also to prevent the vertical studs from bending under the weight of the roof trusses)
W-sort trusses, about 14 degrees (5 m span) resting directly above the vertical studs (i.e., cc 120). The roof will be a lightweight metal roof, but the trusses are designed for a heavy roof in snow zone 3 (live in the lowlands of Sundsvall)
A particular concern I have is how to handle a short side that will be almost completely open or consist of doors/gate: how do you manage if there's no room for diagonal braces to absorb lateral wind forces?
Now, it was the frame I wanted comments on, but I would also like tips on a simple foundation for this building. The intention is to store a caravan and other tools/vehicles in the shed. I will not be casting a slab but want it more basic than that...
5x8 m external dimensions
3 m high walls
95x45 vertical studs/base/top plate cc 120 (insulation will never be considered)
A couple of "diagonal braces" per wall to prevent the wall from buckling
70x45 externally mounted horizontal nailers (partly to nail the panel and also to prevent the vertical studs from bending under the weight of the roof trusses)
W-sort trusses, about 14 degrees (5 m span) resting directly above the vertical studs (i.e., cc 120). The roof will be a lightweight metal roof, but the trusses are designed for a heavy roof in snow zone 3 (live in the lowlands of Sundsvall)
A particular concern I have is how to handle a short side that will be almost completely open or consist of doors/gate: how do you manage if there's no room for diagonal braces to absorb lateral wind forces?
Now, it was the frame I wanted comments on, but I would also like tips on a simple foundation for this building. The intention is to store a caravan and other tools/vehicles in the shed. I will not be casting a slab but want it more basic than that...
This sounds very much like the outbuilding I built last fall, I have the same dimensions for the frame and the same type of trusses and roof. However, I have an interior wall in the outbuilding so lateral wind forces are not an issue in my case.
I made the foundation by digging down to stable ground, laying a base and leveling with 8-16 macadam, and then building two layers of leca blocks (with the second layer protruding above ground). The sill is then fastened to the leca foundation with facade plugs.
I made the foundation by digging down to stable ground, laying a base and leveling with 8-16 macadam, and then building two layers of leca blocks (with the second layer protruding above ground). The sill is then fastened to the leca foundation with facade plugs.
One way to handle the "side forces" is to attach panels to the walls, which are screwed into the framework. Outdoor gypsum, for example, braces the structure well, I think. (At least in my garage and stable)
Thanks for the answers.
No problem with using 120 cm spacing on standing studs, you think?
Digging down to solid ground is probably not an option since it will stand on soil that has already been "turned" (down to 1-1.5m depth) once when we redid the sewer 5 years ago (so there might also be sewer pipes there). What do you think about just leveling/packing a few decimeters of gravel and building (one course?) on top of that? Might have to lift with a jack and adjust in some places after a few years, but I can live with that... stupid or okay?
Regarding lateral forces: the problem with the wall I'm talking about is precisely that it hardly becomes a wall (only an opening/portal), maybe a couple of decimeters in total over 5.5m...
No problem with using 120 cm spacing on standing studs, you think?
Digging down to solid ground is probably not an option since it will stand on soil that has already been "turned" (down to 1-1.5m depth) once when we redid the sewer 5 years ago (so there might also be sewer pipes there). What do you think about just leveling/packing a few decimeters of gravel and building (one course?) on top of that? Might have to lift with a jack and adjust in some places after a few years, but I can live with that... stupid or okay?
Regarding lateral forces: the problem with the wall I'm talking about is precisely that it hardly becomes a wall (only an opening/portal), maybe a couple of decimeters in total over 5.5m...
Place braces in the wall sections that are created, you can let the stretches go up into the trusses to get better "grip."
Screw the roofing sheet tightly so it helps to transfer the force to the other short wall.
You might also consider adding a diagonal brace that sits on the lower arm of the trusses, i.e., diagonally across the entire building.
Screw the roofing sheet tightly so it helps to transfer the force to the other short wall.
You might also consider adding a diagonal brace that sits on the lower arm of the trusses, i.e., diagonally across the entire building.
Have had trouble finding someone to help me dig, so I didn't think it would happen this year. But now the neighbor is renting a bobcat for a week, so I'm considering doing the groundwork myself. So now I would gladly welcome tips again on the simplest possible foundation for my shed. Gabbe1, your outbuilding project sounds interesting, do you just have crushed stone as the floor inside the outbuilding or have you poured a slab later?
I laid some gravel, made a beam about 30 cm deep, and built 3 layers of leca blocks, then nailed a horizontal beam on top and built on that, with reinforcement in each layer. I have pinnmo, so the ground drains well. A few small cracks in 9 years. It was meant to be just a shed... but one thing led to another, so now it's insulated with 140mm over 2 floors. Workshop downstairs and painting studio upstairs.
My avatar shows what it looks like...
My avatar shows what it looks like...
I'd prefer to avoid casting a plinth and masonry, and at the same time, I think it's expensive with, for example, ALBA elements, and then you need a large machine to transport/lift them into place.. what do you think about the following?:
- Dig away a couple of decimeters and fill/pack with crushed stone
- Lay drainage pipes around
- with CC 240 either just use paving stones directly on the ground (preferably), or alternatively dig down pillars
- Use pressure-treated double standing 170x45 as an edge beam with overlapping joints (which then automatically gives a 90 wide base to attach standing studs to)
- Fill up with a few centimeters of gravel afterward inside/around (perhaps mostly for appearance's sake)
So it's basically an "open pillar foundation" I'm considering but preferably without pillars
Any obvious problems with this? Could the building even blow away if it's not anchored to the ground?
If it works, then I would have a finished edge beam that costs about 1400 SEK, takes about 1 hour to saw/screw together, and is load-bearing with CC240 (in case it needs adjusting after a few years).
- Dig away a couple of decimeters and fill/pack with crushed stone
- Lay drainage pipes around
- with CC 240 either just use paving stones directly on the ground (preferably), or alternatively dig down pillars
- Use pressure-treated double standing 170x45 as an edge beam with overlapping joints (which then automatically gives a 90 wide base to attach standing studs to)
- Fill up with a few centimeters of gravel afterward inside/around (perhaps mostly for appearance's sake)
So it's basically an "open pillar foundation" I'm considering but preferably without pillars
Any obvious problems with this? Could the building even blow away if it's not anchored to the ground?If it works, then I would have a finished edge beam that costs about 1400 SEK, takes about 1 hour to saw/screw together, and is load-bearing with CC240 (in case it needs adjusting after a few years).
I don't think pressure-treated joists in macadam will become a source of problems, but it probably won't be as sturdy as a masonry foundation. But will you be able to get the entire construction high enough off the ground with 170mm joists on edge? My foundation is, as mentioned, 40cm high (with half buried).
Then I also think that a plastered foundation is more visually appealing compared to pressure-treated wood.
Then I also think that a plastered foundation is more visually appealing compared to pressure-treated wood.
I was thinking of having the plinths approximately at ground level, so in that way, the rest of the frame will be 17 cm above the ground (compared to your 20cm). Sure, the aesthetics are a matter of taste, but it works for me (besides, the panel comes out 5 cm and I might lower it so only 10 cm is visible, add a bit of grass growth to that so ).
).Small status update: I was lucky that the municipality did some ditch digging with a 20-ton machine along the road where we live, so I got two truckloads of fill material as well as forming and flattening for a cheap price from them. Soon the pilings will be in place (using the mini excavator to dig them down), and tomorrow 12 tons of 0-40 base layer will be spread out. Additionally, 5 out of 7 roof trusses are already screwed together. Sometimes things can go fast when the stars are aligned...