We are going to build a house with wood wool in the walls, and thus no vapor barrier, only a vapor retarder.
I have started to consider what type of paint one can use on the inside of the exterior walls. It probably won't work well with any dense plastic paint because then it would become a vapor barrier, or what do you think?
//Micke
I have started to consider what type of paint one can use on the inside of the exterior walls. It probably won't work well with any dense plastic paint because then it would become a vapor barrier, or what do you think?
//Micke
Read the blog about the healthy house, sundahuset.se! Very interesting reading if you want your entire house to be environmentally friendly. If you don't have the energy to read, Felicia (who wrote the blog) is passionate about, among other things, the paint company Auro, http://www.auro.se/, which makes ecological paint.
I myself will soon start building my house with wood fiber in the walls. Hard boards on the outside and wood fiber wool in the walls. The roof will also have wood fiber boards and wood fiber wool without any air gap! Vapor barrier on the inside and vapor-permeable fabric on the wood fiber boards on the roof (due to low slope, otherwise not needed) under the roof sheet. Feels like the right way to go! I'm not going all the way like Felicia did, but as far as I can manage, it'll be natural. So there will be some kind of environmentally friendly paint on the inside. On the outside, there will be traditional Swedish paint.
I myself will soon start building my house with wood fiber in the walls. Hard boards on the outside and wood fiber wool in the walls. The roof will also have wood fiber boards and wood fiber wool without any air gap! Vapor barrier on the inside and vapor-permeable fabric on the wood fiber boards on the roof (due to low slope, otherwise not needed) under the roof sheet. Feels like the right way to go! I'm not going all the way like Felicia did, but as far as I can manage, it'll be natural. So there will be some kind of environmentally friendly paint on the inside. On the outside, there will be traditional Swedish paint.
Member
· Västernorrland
· 12 028 posts
there is no paint that is diffusion-tight in that way, so what you cover the walls with becomes quite secondary except if you want to maintain an environmentally friendly line, but then it is a completely different story.
It's strange then that the paint manufacturers have paint they specify as diffusion-open.Stefan1972 said:
I just painted with the linseed oil emulsion paint from Kulturhantverkarna (http://shopen.kulturhantverkarna.se/vagg-takfarg-inomhus/) on the lime plaster in my future kitchen. I live under the impression that it is more diffusion-open than "plastic paint," but it wasn't a major argument for me, more so that it should be period-appropriate and environmentally friendly (during painting and for us living in the house). How well it functions in the long run, I don't know (yet).
M
Marcussjogren
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 3 081 posts
Marcussjogren
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- Västra Götaland
- 3,081 posts
Linseed oil paint or egg oil tempera are good, strong, and natural paints.
The latter is said to be insanely cheap to paint with, but has much poorer durability (about a week).
The latter is said to be insanely cheap to paint with, but has much poorer durability (about a week).
All latex-based paint is diffusion-tight and therefore unsuitable here (and in most other contexts). The choice of paint type partly depends on what kind of material you will be painting on. If the inside walls are made of wood paneling, egg oil tempera is a very good choice. Very durable and easy to touch up without it being noticeable. It is manufactured, among others, by Ovolin (in Degerfors, I believe). In a kitchen with a lot of dirt and grease splashes, linseed oil paint is probably a better choice. Ottossons in Genarp has a good selection.
Member
· Stockholms
· 1 555 posts
I heard that matte paints are more breathable than glossy ones.
By the way, I've been thinking about this for a long time. Some say that modern paints become diffusion-tight, like wrapping the house in a plastic bag. Then, when you start talking about sealing bathrooms, you need primer, rubber membrane, strips in all corners, and rubber glue. Wouldn't it be easier to just paint a layer with the super-tight wall paint there?
By the way, I've been thinking about this for a long time. Some say that modern paints become diffusion-tight, like wrapping the house in a plastic bag. Then, when you start talking about sealing bathrooms, you need primer, rubber membrane, strips in all corners, and rubber glue. Wouldn't it be easier to just paint a layer with the super-tight wall paint there?
M
Marcussjogren
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 3 081 posts
Marcussjogren
Member
- Västra Götaland
- 3,081 posts
It's never a problem to put wood in a plastic bag as long as the bag is completely sealedFred vom Jupiter said:
But it's a fun analogy you make
Color choice depends somewhat on the material that serves as the base.
On wood, you can paint with linseed oil paint, egg oil tempera, etc., but perhaps not glue paint. On porous board materials, you might not want to paint with linseed oil paint as they absorb too much, but you can oil the surface first and then paint with linseed oil paint.
On plaster, it is silicate paint or glue paint that is typically used.
Glue paint was quite common in the past on substrates of paper or old newspapers glued up with wallpaper paste, but it was something of a poor man's solution. Glue paint is not very wipeable either, it chalks if you rub it.
Egg oil tempera has been used for both wooden furniture, cabinets, and even walls if one could afford it (eggs were expensive in the past). Once egg oil tempera has hardened, it is wipeable and resistant to abrasion but rather matt in gloss. It can be polished a bit to get a slightly glossier surface (or waxed if it should be even shinier, but then there's a risk of water splashes leaving white spots, depending on the wax).
Linseed oil paint was quite exclusive for wall paint but was used if you had wood paneling or did marbling or wood graining on plaster.
What someone wrote about matte paint being less dense than glossy paint I do not believe at all - it is the pigment composition that gives the gloss, and by this, I mean not the amount of pigment but the type of pigment used. The diffusion-tight layer is provided by the binder.
On wood, you can paint with linseed oil paint, egg oil tempera, etc., but perhaps not glue paint. On porous board materials, you might not want to paint with linseed oil paint as they absorb too much, but you can oil the surface first and then paint with linseed oil paint.
On plaster, it is silicate paint or glue paint that is typically used.
Glue paint was quite common in the past on substrates of paper or old newspapers glued up with wallpaper paste, but it was something of a poor man's solution. Glue paint is not very wipeable either, it chalks if you rub it.
Egg oil tempera has been used for both wooden furniture, cabinets, and even walls if one could afford it (eggs were expensive in the past). Once egg oil tempera has hardened, it is wipeable and resistant to abrasion but rather matt in gloss. It can be polished a bit to get a slightly glossier surface (or waxed if it should be even shinier, but then there's a risk of water splashes leaving white spots, depending on the wax).
Linseed oil paint was quite exclusive for wall paint but was used if you had wood paneling or did marbling or wood graining on plaster.
What someone wrote about matte paint being less dense than glossy paint I do not believe at all - it is the pigment composition that gives the gloss, and by this, I mean not the amount of pigment but the type of pigment used. The diffusion-tight layer is provided by the binder.