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17 replies
Choose timber beam or glulam beam for building frame for garage door
In the top image of the first post, there is a picture where you can see a "frame" in the form of a horizontal lintel and three posts. These are needed to have something to attach the frame for the pedestrian door and the rails for the overhead garage door.
The typical approach with overhead garage doors is to mount them inside the garage opening, which is not an option for me. That would cause the door panel to close too far inside, leaving a portion of the garage floor "sticking out" in front of the closed door. This is due to how the garage was originally built with the tilt doors from the 1970s.
I therefore need to build the structure to which the garage door rails and the pedestrian door frame will be attached. This frame is outdoors, so the construction needs to be weather-resistant.
The entire opening is currently 444x208cm. I need to change this to two openings, with one accommodating a 100cm wide door and the other a 301cm wide garage door.
The typical approach with overhead garage doors is to mount them inside the garage opening, which is not an option for me. That would cause the door panel to close too far inside, leaving a portion of the garage floor "sticking out" in front of the closed door. This is due to how the garage was originally built with the tilt doors from the 1970s.
I therefore need to build the structure to which the garage door rails and the pedestrian door frame will be attached. This frame is outdoors, so the construction needs to be weather-resistant.
The entire opening is currently 444x208cm. I need to change this to two openings, with one accommodating a 100cm wide door and the other a 301cm wide garage door.
Ok....In other words, you should not build a frame and therefore don't need to buy expensive planed timber. Regular framing lumber will suffice. No glulam beams or LVL beams are needed at all. You only need timber to adjust the opening to the correct dimensions and to have something to screw the door and gate into.
Remember not to place wood directly against the concrete, use tar paper or plastic shims between the floor and wood. Prime and paint so it will last longer.
Remember not to place wood directly against the concrete, use tar paper or plastic shims between the floor and wood. Prime and paint so it will last longer.
It is important that the frame doesn't move too much. It will be painted black and face west, so it will have afternoon/evening sun exposure. If the frame moves, everything attached to it moves as well. You can adjust the frame screw on a door, but it would be troublesome if the garage door starts sticking.
Lumber is usually planed with rounded edges. If you stack several pieces of lumber, there will be a small "ditch" between them. The ditch gives the wrong appearance and must be eliminated. I want it to feel like a single solid thick frame. Can this be filled (painter's caulk?) so it stays intact outdoors? If I can find 45x95 without rounded edges, I believe the chances of a nice result increase.
Thanks for the tip about the end grain. When I called Kerto, they said a glue-nailed piece of oil-hardened board at the bottom of the post is good (but obviously not the only solution).
Lumber is usually planed with rounded edges. If you stack several pieces of lumber, there will be a small "ditch" between them. The ditch gives the wrong appearance and must be eliminated. I want it to feel like a single solid thick frame. Can this be filled (painter's caulk?) so it stays intact outdoors? If I can find 45x95 without rounded edges, I believe the chances of a nice result increase.
Thanks for the tip about the end grain. When I called Kerto, they said a glue-nailed piece of oil-hardened board at the bottom of the post is good (but obviously not the only solution).
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