Working on a small project in my outhouse where I'm framing and insulating a hobby room.
What I'm pondering is what to cover the inside of the walls with, OSB or chipboard? The room will occasionally be unheated if that affects the choice of material.
Or maybe one should use tongue and groove boards with a drywall over it, that way you can easily screw things onto the wall at least.
What I'm pondering is what to cover the inside of the walls with, OSB or chipboard? The room will occasionally be unheated if that affects the choice of material.
Or maybe one should use tongue and groove boards with a drywall over it, that way you can easily screw things onto the wall at least.
Tongue-and-groove board with drywall will be used in my garage, at about the same price as OSB with drywall in front.
Undoubtedly OSB. I think it handles moisture much better than particle board. Particle boards swell and become more porous when unheated and likely damp.
If you want nice surfaces, you can cover them with easycover or something else.
If you want nice surfaces, you can cover them with easycover or something else.
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Agree with the previous speakers so OSB.
Shavings are probably quite a bit cheaper, right? Not decisive in the matter, but for an entire house, one would probably save a bit.
Definitely drywall on the surface! Definitely something to screw into behind the drywall.
The best load-bearing after nogging is construction plywood, but it's also the most expensive.
The cheapest but also the worst is probably particle board.
I believe OSB is the perfect compromise. Easier to put up than tongue-and-groove boards. Much cheaper than plywood but better load-bearing than particle board.
So my advice is: definitely drywall with OSB underneath!
Just remember to leave a 2-3 mm gap between each OSB board (expansion allowance to prevent bulging walls). It's best to screw the OSB with particle board screws—not drywall screws (because OSB is harder than drywall).
When it comes to drilling holes for electrical boxes, it's most practical to choose a slightly larger hole saw for OSB, i.e., T80 instead of T70 for standard device boxes, etc. For drywall, it should of course be T70 for device boxes.
The best load-bearing after nogging is construction plywood, but it's also the most expensive.
The cheapest but also the worst is probably particle board.
I believe OSB is the perfect compromise. Easier to put up than tongue-and-groove boards. Much cheaper than plywood but better load-bearing than particle board.
So my advice is: definitely drywall with OSB underneath!
Just remember to leave a 2-3 mm gap between each OSB board (expansion allowance to prevent bulging walls). It's best to screw the OSB with particle board screws—not drywall screws (because OSB is harder than drywall).
When it comes to drilling holes for electrical boxes, it's most practical to choose a slightly larger hole saw for OSB, i.e., T80 instead of T70 for standard device boxes, etc. For drywall, it should of course be T70 for device boxes.
Very good post and great that you left the tip about leaving gaps between since OSB also swells and changes size unlike plasterboard.Marcus J said:
However, I would personally rather spend one or maybe a couple of thousand more and invest in plywood instead as I consider it more stable.
A lot of talk about load-bearing, etc. Has anyone here on the forum, not me at least, experienced wanting to hang something so heavy on a wall that chipboard behind drywall wouldn't hold? I have chipboard behind the drywall myself, and it's great for screwing things into; TVs or shelves are no problem. If it's an enormously heavy tool board, just add more studs and use noggins. Or have we created a first world problem 
? In that case, maybe reinforced cast walls with chemical anchors and expansion bolts are the solution. But then it’s usually called a vault...
? In that case, maybe reinforced cast walls with chemical anchors and expansion bolts are the solution. But then it’s usually called a vault... 
I have my entire kitchen mounted on plaster + particle board without noggings and it holds. A single layer with plaster bears poorly, the same goes for a single layer with particle board, but together it's very good.Havsutsikt said:A lot of talk about load-bearing capacity etc. Has anyone here on the forum, not me anyway, experienced wanting to hang something so heavy on a wall that particle board behind plaster wouldn't hold? I personally have particle board behind the plaster and it holds really well for screwing things in, TVs or shelves are no problem. If it's an enormously heavy tool panel, space the studs closer and use noggings. Or have we created a first world problem
Borrowing the thread a bit. I'm in the process of changing the facade and windows in the house, the new windows are a bit smaller so I'm considering either ripping off tretex but it's an awful lot of work or using renovation drywall over it but then I have to splice over the pieces that are missing around the windows, behind the tretex there's 45 mm tongue and groove wood, it's a 50s house. I don't want to cut too many corners either but the tretex isn't great, the question is how stable it will be with 6 mm drywall over it even if it becomes easy to spackle and wallpaper afterwards.Egon84 said:
/robin