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Cheap and Quick Ceiling
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Hello
I am working on a relatively large (150M2) utility building that is insulated and heated. Now it's almost time to put up the ceiling, considering using some form of sheet material like particle board directly on the trusses. Does anyone have tips on any other simple way to achieve an acceptable result at a low cost?
I am working on a relatively large (150M2) utility building that is insulated and heated. Now it's almost time to put up the ceiling, considering using some form of sheet material like particle board directly on the trusses. Does anyone have tips on any other simple way to achieve an acceptable result at a low cost?
Osb is probably not a great choice as it will start to sag due to weight and moisture sensitivity. I would have probably used gypsum board for the ceiling, either flat or with beveled gypsum... but otherwise, there are quite a few nice regular ceiling options like elite and huntonit... but that will be a different cost 
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Now I don't know what the space will be used for, but grålumpapp + panel boards with gap = carpenter's pencil might work. Råspont is completely OK.
Why would it start to sag? It is not my impression that OSB boards start to sag over time. But sure... If you install them in a very humid environment, with large spacing between joists, they will probably start to sag, but plaster would do the same under those conditions.trojlee said:OSB is probably not a great choice since it will start to sag due to weight and moisture sensitivity. I would probably plaster the ceiling either smooth or with beveled plaster.....but otherwise, there are a lot of nice regular ceilings like elite and huntonit...but then it will be a different cost
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However, to assume that the boards would start sagging, one needs to know the joist spacing, and I actually don't think that information is present in this thread.
Regarding moisture, there are different qualities of OSB depending on the application. There are, for example, moisture-resistant boards and boards coated with phenolic film, which would suit this case very well.
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The idea is to mount directly on the rafters which are spaced at cc 1200.
tak-ess is and works like huntonit, but costs almost half.
For example, Bauhaus usually carries that panel for about 100:-/sqm.
I use it in our house, fastening it with a staple gun and narrow (6mm) and long (about 20-30mm) staples, quick as lightning.
Then you get panels and surface treatment in one go, and at essentially the same price as plasterboard + filler + tape + primer + final paint.
And otherwise, you might consider if it's possible to just tension, for example, wind barrier under a sparse panel of 25x38 batten. That's dirt cheap but ugly as hell.
edit: you managed to post about cc1200.
If you use takess or huntonit, etc., you must first install a sparse panel, I recall that takess wants 28x70 sparse in cc600.
For example, Bauhaus usually carries that panel for about 100:-/sqm.
I use it in our house, fastening it with a staple gun and narrow (6mm) and long (about 20-30mm) staples, quick as lightning.
Then you get panels and surface treatment in one go, and at essentially the same price as plasterboard + filler + tape + primer + final paint.
And otherwise, you might consider if it's possible to just tension, for example, wind barrier under a sparse panel of 25x38 batten. That's dirt cheap but ugly as hell.
edit: you managed to post about cc1200.
If you use takess or huntonit, etc., you must first install a sparse panel, I recall that takess wants 28x70 sparse in cc600.
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The elite requires cc30 on their ceilings, I don't think you will get a good result no matter what you choose if you decide to install with cc120, possibly something that is tongue and grooved. But as pbengtsson wrote, it can be nice with panel boards in the right environment...
Buildmax's cheapest “fulgips”, bevel the short sides with a belt sander. Fill and then use Byggmax Ceiling Paint Premium, it covers fairly well.
An alternative might be cheap “råspont” that you nail into place, it gives a genuine wood feel and can hold fastenings. Possibly spray paint over it
/Anders
An alternative might be cheap “råspont” that you nail into place, it gives a genuine wood feel and can hold fastenings. Possibly spray paint over it
/Anders
Probably leaning towards råspont, then some white paint on top. For sheet material, you'll need to frame it no matter what you use, and then it becomes both more expensive and more cumbersome.
In an agricultural building of that size, only raw timber cladding will do. At least, that's what I think. (UNLESS there will be welding or other hot work done there, then gypsum is the way to go)
Spray paint it white with cheap ceiling paint and it will be great.
I saw some farmer in a commercial buying cheap ceiling paint when he was repainting the barn.
Spray paint it white with cheap ceiling paint and it will be great.
I saw some farmer in a commercial buying cheap ceiling paint when he was repainting the barn.
Thanks for all the replies, just about twenty osb-skivor left to staple up then time for the ceiling...
OSB board retailers?eviljava said:Why would it start sagging? It is not my understanding that OSB boards start sagging after a while. But sure... If you mount them in a very humid environment, with large spacing between the studs, they will certainly start to sag, but drywall would do the same under the same conditions.
But to make the assumption that the boards would start sagging, one should know the distance between the studs, and I actually think that information isn't available in this thread.
Regarding moisture, there are different qualities of OSB depending on the intended use. There are, among other things, moisture-resistant boards and boards coated with phenolic film, which would very well be suitable in this case.
TS actually wrote "directly on the rafters," which suggests he doesn't want to add any extra strapping, and no, it won't work to install OSB with a c/c 120 measurement.
I had actually hoped that someone would respond that they've had OSB with cc 1200 for 20 years without problems. A panel lift and the staple gun would have finished the ceiling in an afternoon in that case... Now it will have to be raw wood instead.