376,594 views ·
138 replies
377k views
138 replies
Casting a concrete countertop - pictures, questions..
There's a Makita that might work:LiMa said:
http://katalog.essve.se/webspeed/ka...t_bid=V70&dokid=wc63672&katnr=2&katsektnr=324
But maybe the finish will be too coarse with that one?
Quoting "For effective grinding of flash, irregularities, and edges".
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 970 posts
Fjordlund, draw a silicone bead in the mold and you'll get a slightly rounded edge.
Where can one find this water glass material?
By the way, I have figured out where the right soap is sold (the one mentioned in Finja's brochure), www.essemess.se
The surface as it is now on my slab is too rough, so I will probably redo it. It seems that diamond paper + water glass is what is needed to achieve the shiny surface I'm aiming for.
By the way, I have figured out where the right soap is sold (the one mentioned in Finja's brochure), www.essemess.se
The surface as it is now on my slab is too rough, so I will probably redo it. It seems that diamond paper + water glass is what is needed to achieve the shiny surface I'm aiming for.
You can buy sodium silicate at the paint store!wireless2000 said:Where can you find this sodium silicate material?
By the way, I've figured out where the right soap is sold (the one mentioned in Finja's brochure), www.essemess.se
The surface on my board as it is now is too rough, so I will probably redo it. It seems that diamond paper + sodium silicate is what you need to get the glossy surface I'm after.
Now bought vattenglas (thanks anaitis). How to apply? Nothing is written on it and the man in the store didn't have a clue.
problem...
I'm making three slabs.. Made two of them, the island and a filler piece.
Now I've made the one with holes for ho etc.
Reinforced it and all that, but it cracked at the thin spots around the ho when we were lifting it...
Any tips?
I'm making three slabs.. Made two of them, the island and a filler piece.
Now I've made the one with holes for ho etc.
Reinforced it and all that, but it cracked at the thin spots around the ho when we were lifting it...
Any tips?
First of all, the mold must be placed directly on a completely flat surface; I cast on the basement floor. When you then need to move it, do it on the edge, pressing the slab in the mold with clamps or similar. When there are such weak/narrow parts, they are extremely fragile to side movements. So brace it before moving...alexwidell said:
Good luck!
/LiMa
I also think the reason is that the slab flexes too much.alexwidell said:
I could think of two methods to reinforce locally at the cutout for the ho:
1 Add a bit more reinforcement locally, diagonally at the corners. Rebar should work, otherwise thick steel wire.
2 Make an additional reinforcement after casting before you remove the form. Sort of like thickenings around the cutout, not so close that it interferes with the ho’s mounting. Can be done with concrete or something else. You can actually cast these reinforcements separately and then glue them on with epoxy glue. The latter method has been used to attach frames in concrete boats!
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Hello,
I had some consultation yesterday, and we decided to try oiling first before I make a new one.
Said and done, the cracks are almost "as good as gone"...
I'll have to live with some small shadows, but isn't that the charm of concrete? Otherwise, I could have bought compact laminate

I had some consultation yesterday, and we decided to try oiling first before I make a new one.
Said and done, the cracks are almost "as good as gone"...
I'll have to live with some small shadows, but isn't that the charm of concrete? Otherwise, I could have bought compact laminate

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