Anyone know where to buy soap flakes for concrete treatment!?
Called about 10-15 places today without result. Finja concrete, which mentions it in the manual for "concrete countertop," doesn't even know themselves.
Tried calling paint stores, yarn/wool, some grocery stores, Panduro, prols, kitchen retailers, Beijerbygg, the pharmacy, etc. etc.
Most have never even heard of it.
If you google soap flakes, you get a lot of recipes (bubbles, finger paint, etc.) where this is included, but no purchasing info...
Any tips!?
Called about 10-15 places today without result. Finja concrete, which mentions it in the manual for "concrete countertop," doesn't even know themselves.
Tried calling paint stores, yarn/wool, some grocery stores, Panduro, prols, kitchen retailers, Beijerbygg, the pharmacy, etc. etc.
Most have never even heard of it.
If you google soap flakes, you get a lot of recipes (bubbles, finger paint, etc.) where this is included, but no purchasing info...
Any tips!?
Form plywood 400-600kr depending on cutting etc.
25kg fine concrete 45kr each, guessing 4 pieces? Check the required volume.
Silicone 70kr
Various reinforcement 200kr
Screw xkr
Sandpaper
etc. etc.
But apart from the fact that it’s quite a bit of work and splashing around, it is cheaper than everything else, especially considering the result if you succeed!
There is finer and more durable concrete that should ideally be used, but it is more expensive.
25kg fine concrete 45kr each, guessing 4 pieces? Check the required volume.
Silicone 70kr
Various reinforcement 200kr
Screw xkr
Sandpaper
etc. etc.
But apart from the fact that it’s quite a bit of work and splashing around, it is cheaper than everything else, especially considering the result if you succeed!
There is finer and more durable concrete that should ideally be used, but it is more expensive.
Thanks! Sounds like you can save a penny instead of buying one in solid wood 
We will have black granite as a countertop/sink. The floor is walnut parquet and the kitchen cabinetry is white, with all appliances in stainless steel. Do you think it will "clash" with a concrete worktop on the kitchen island?
TyraMyra
We will have black granite as a countertop/sink. The floor is walnut parquet and the kitchen cabinetry is white, with all appliances in stainless steel. Do you think it will "clash" with a concrete worktop on the kitchen island?
TyraMyra
Regarding the vibration of concrete when making a countertop, can't you vibrate the concrete first and then lower the reinforcement afterwards? Planning to cast a slab myself following Finja's instructions. Does anyone see an issue with lowering the reinforcement after vibrating?
Don't think you can lay it down after because the concrete is quite thick and the reinforcement might not sink down?
but if you vibrate at the same time as you lay it down, it will definitely work. Why lay it down afterwards?
but if you vibrate at the same time as you lay it down, it will definitely work. Why lay it down afterwards?
Vibrate properly without reinforcement. Add the reinforcement and vibrate a little so it sinks. Should work, right?
Something that doesn't work, however, is waxing the countertop with grönlandsvalla as I did. It disappears when you place hot items on the surface. I'll remove the wax and replace it with oil/liquid hard wax.
Something that doesn't work, however, is waxing the countertop with grönlandsvalla as I did. It disappears when you place hot items on the surface. I'll remove the wax and replace it with oil/liquid hard wax.
It's cool that people have started building sinks out of concrete. I've been interested for a while and bought Fu-tung Cheng's books last year. I got really inspired. The only question is whether you can get good/right products here, shipping from the USA would probably be unreasonably expensive. Anyway, there seems to be a plethora of products available to handle some of the issues discussed in the threads. Apparently, air bubble holes after casting are best filled with a so-called "slurry" - "Voids are best filled with a slurry coat, made of pure cement with either very fine sand or no sand at all." After polishing, you should apparently apply a waterproof layer, a so-called sealer, before waxing.
In Cheng's book, they include reinforcement beforehand and attach it with steel wire. Pour in the concrete, then vibrate it, and when it's done, cut the wire and push it down...
The coolest part is all the different colors and inlays you can make in the concrete, everything from cream white to volcanic black, with inlays of various metals, stones, glass etc.
Check out more at: http://www.concreteexchange.com/
In Cheng's book, they include reinforcement beforehand and attach it with steel wire. Pour in the concrete, then vibrate it, and when it's done, cut the wire and push it down...
The coolest part is all the different colors and inlays you can make in the concrete, everything from cream white to volcanic black, with inlays of various metals, stones, glass etc.
Check out more at: http://www.concreteexchange.com/
I have cast a number of concrete test pieces. On one, I used regular soft soap which I polished with a polishing machine, resulting in a very pleasant and smooth surface. What I liked about the soap is that the concrete still looks raw and untreated. On the other, I used stone impregnation that became very resistant to moisture but with a slightly rougher surface.
Hi
I'm in the process of casting concrete slabs for our new kitchen. Initially, I tried sanding by hand, but I've realized it should probably be done with a machine. How should the surface be treated afterward? I've tried with Stensåpa Steinfix 50 & 60, but it doesn't really hold up against water, and how will it handle wine, grease splashes, etc.? Does anyone know what can be used to achieve a really good and durable surface?
I'm in the process of casting concrete slabs for our new kitchen. Initially, I tried sanding by hand, but I've realized it should probably be done with a machine. How should the surface be treated afterward? I've tried with Stensåpa Steinfix 50 & 60, but it doesn't really hold up against water, and how will it handle wine, grease splashes, etc.? Does anyone know what can be used to achieve a really good and durable surface?
Yes, please add pictures of the top. Have you done anything more than mix in iron oxide, oiled it, used soap... or something else?Watchmen said:
I am wondering what to do to make the top resistant to grease and dirt so that you don't have to worry about what might happen. Does anyone else know what can be done to make it water and dirt repellent?