Hello,
We are renovating the hallway and have now taken down the wallpaper. We have bought renovation plasterboard to cover the walls as they are relatively uneven.
The question is, how even and clean does the wall need to be before putting up the plasterboard?
This is what it looks like right now: http://imgur.com/a/Ph1yl
The last picture shows what it looked like with the thick wallpaper installed; there are some uneven areas visible between the strips. They had plastered quite a bit to even it out, but it still didn't turn out well; we aim for a smooth transition.
Can we put the renovation plasterboard directly over this, or do we need to remove everything and maybe do some plastering as well? Can the smell from old glue and the masonite board penetrate the plasterboard?
We are renovating the hallway and have now taken down the wallpaper. We have bought renovation plasterboard to cover the walls as they are relatively uneven.
The question is, how even and clean does the wall need to be before putting up the plasterboard?
This is what it looks like right now: http://imgur.com/a/Ph1yl
The last picture shows what it looked like with the thick wallpaper installed; there are some uneven areas visible between the strips. They had plastered quite a bit to even it out, but it still didn't turn out well; we aim for a smooth transition.
Can we put the renovation plasterboard directly over this, or do we need to remove everything and maybe do some plastering as well? Can the smell from old glue and the masonite board penetrate the plasterboard?
Hehe yeah, we noticed it when we carried them, it's impressive how much they can bend without breaking. The unevenness isn't very large, we're talking about a few mm here and there, installing small lists seems quite difficult unless the idea is for them to act as kind of studs across the entire wall?
It's about 195 cm up to the ceiling in the basement and one panel is 250 cm, so if you place it from the bottom up, you'll overlap the floor level by about 30 cm, which should be enough? If the plasterboard can bend a little over the floor section, maybe that's okay, it probably won't show, it's worse when there are sharp edges like there were before.
It's about 195 cm up to the ceiling in the basement and one panel is 250 cm, so if you place it from the bottom up, you'll overlap the floor level by about 30 cm, which should be enough? If the plasterboard can bend a little over the floor section, maybe that's okay, it probably won't show, it's worse when there are sharp edges like there were before.
Is it a meeting with two different materials?
Yes exactly, there is concrete in the basement and masonite on the ground floor. From what I understand, you can glue on the concrete wall and screw on the masonite wall.
But then there is a small level difference even between the masonite boards and right at floor level there is maybe a 2-3 mm difference. My idea is to overlap this as much as possible with the plasterboard, not to place a seam right there.
But then there is a small level difference even between the masonite boards and right at floor level there is maybe a 2-3 mm difference. My idea is to overlap this as much as possible with the plasterboard, not to place a seam right there.
I believe you do it better with a foglist in the junction between floor/material.
The materials move differently.
However, if you want to use gypsum, I think you should use "normal" gypsum.
The materials move differently.
However, if you want to use gypsum, I think you should use "normal" gypsum.
Ok. Hope it stays nice. 
I don't think I understand what you mean by foglist? Do you mean that you put them on the wall as studs and then screw the plasterboard into this? So foglists are put on the whole wall?
I think you should be able to put renovation plasterboard directly on as it is now, but I have no experience with this method.
In the kitchen, we tore everything down and put up OSB and double plasterboard. But we also insulated the walls and did a lot of electrical work. Here we don't need to insulate or do electrical work, so renovation plasterboard should be enough. All joints, of course, get plasterboard tape.
I think you should be able to put renovation plasterboard directly on as it is now, but I have no experience with this method.
In the kitchen, we tore everything down and put up OSB and double plasterboard. But we also insulated the walls and did a lot of electrical work. Here we don't need to insulate or do electrical work, so renovation plasterboard should be enough. All joints, of course, get plasterboard tape.
Glue the gypsum to the concrete, screw the gypsum to the masonite. But do it in two separate parts so that they are allowed to move relative to each other. Cover the gap that forms with a foglist. You can google what that looks like.
Aha, Now I begin to understand what is meant, I thought one should put a trim under the gypsum. So you allow a gap and there you put a trim over which in our case is painted white then. However, this means that the wallpaper we are going to put up will be divided in the middle by the trim? We would like the wallpaper to go as before, from the basement floor up to the ceiling on the entrance level without any direct interruption, but that's not possible without getting cracks in the wallpaper then?
What happens if you overlap the joint with gypsum? That is, a part of the gypsum is screwed into Masonite and one is glued to concrete? Will the gypsum break apart after a while?
If you need to make sure there is a gap between the gypsum boards exactly in this section, then maybe you can put some fabric or something similar there to hold it together better and then put wallpaper. If it cracks later, you can put a joint strip there, but it won't look very nice since it's a bit lower, i.e. not where the stairs end.
If you need to make sure there is a gap between the gypsum boards exactly in this section, then maybe you can put some fabric or something similar there to hold it together better and then put wallpaper. If it cracks later, you can put a joint strip there, but it won't look very nice since it's a bit lower, i.e. not where the stairs end.
Microlit
So first I put up my plasterboards and then I apply microlit, i.e., reinforcement mat on top just where the problem areas are?
What we tore down were very thick wallpapers that couldn't be torn off by hand. Underneath, there was putty, and embedded in the putty was some type of mesh, possibly fiberglass mesh. The wallpaper hadn't cracked at all in this area.
We really want to have a whole wall with wallpaper without any trim since we plan to create a feature wall.
From what I understand, you shouldn't place a plasterboard between two different materials, i.e., in our case between concrete and hardboard? Instead, we should create a joint right where the transition happens and then apply microlit or something similar there? Don't you think it would still be better to overlap with the plasterboard?
Furthermore, I don't understand why people are against renovation plasterboard other than it being more expensive than usual. It is very durable considering how thin it is! And quite a bit easier to handle and put up. In our case where we already had 10 mm hardboard walls, renovation plasterboard feels pretty obvious, actually. However, if we were going into the wall, we would probably have put OSB and plasterboard instead.
What we tore down were very thick wallpapers that couldn't be torn off by hand. Underneath, there was putty, and embedded in the putty was some type of mesh, possibly fiberglass mesh. The wallpaper hadn't cracked at all in this area.
We really want to have a whole wall with wallpaper without any trim since we plan to create a feature wall.
From what I understand, you shouldn't place a plasterboard between two different materials, i.e., in our case between concrete and hardboard? Instead, we should create a joint right where the transition happens and then apply microlit or something similar there? Don't you think it would still be better to overlap with the plasterboard?
Furthermore, I don't understand why people are against renovation plasterboard other than it being more expensive than usual. It is very durable considering how thin it is! And quite a bit easier to handle and put up. In our case where we already had 10 mm hardboard walls, renovation plasterboard feels pretty obvious, actually. However, if we were going into the wall, we would probably have put OSB and plasterboard instead.