Hello everyone,

Maybe a silly question here - but I'm going to redo the hallway at home, saw up the floor, remove the insulation and studs down to the slab, which is uninsulated. Then I plan to cast with EPS, use leveling compound with electric underfloor heating and lay tiles.

The problem is that we have two warm pipes running along the outer edge of our house, like underfloor heating but only along the sill, so to speak. Some kind of 80s invention. These go through the hallway.

From what I understand, there's actually no problem embedding these in the EPS - but will they dry out the concrete/speed up the curing too quickly so that the concrete doesn't set properly/cracks?

Am I unfortunately forced to get a plumber to shut them off/drain?
 
F freppe.ar said:
Am I forced to solve a plumber's issue to turn off/drain?
Surely it must be possible to adjust the temperature without calling a plumber?


Why are you installing electric underfloor heating if there is water-based heating?
 
surris
You should turn off the heat. But you shouldn't need a plumber's help for that? You don't need to drain, just turn off the heat/circulation pump.
 
You live in a house but don't know how to regulate the heat? 🤔

Take some pictures of the installation and you'll probably get better answers. With some luck, it might be possible to throttle just that loop without turning off the heat in the whole house.
 
useless useless said:
You live in a house but don't know how to regulate the heat? 🤔

Take some pictures of the installation and you might get better answers. With some luck, you can restrict just that circuit without turning off the heat in the whole house.
Yep, not my strong suit, this. I have to admit that I've somewhat ignored this part of the system.

Since these pipes don't really affect the house's overall heat, in my opinion. We have electric radiators and air-to-air heat pumps. You can feel the pipes are warm when the house is cold (<18-19 degrees), but otherwise, they don't provide much heat themselves. We heat the house with the air-to-air pumps, those I can regulate. ;)

I know the neighbor has turned off and cut these pipes. But when the electric heater broke a few months ago and they were here fixing it, they advised against turning these off completely.

I don't know what pictures to take since none of this is visible; the only thing I have to work with is the water heater.
 
It is a fairly simple heat pump without any direct adjustment options. But there should be a room thermostat somewhere that regulates the circulation pump? Otherwise, you simply have to lift the lid and unplug the cord to it.
 
Aren't the pipes for the radiators going under the floor instead of along the baseboard? Seen in several older houses that have waterborne heating with radiators on the walls, that the pipes come from the floor.
 
T TheGame said:
Isn't it just the pipes for the radiators running under the floor instead of along the baseboard?
I've seen it like that in several older houses with water-based systems with wall-mounted radiators, where the pipes come from the floor.
There were some house manufacturers that experimented with heating loops in the sill to reduce moisture migration and improve the climate in the crawl space. The same concept as Trygghetsvakten, but factory-installed and water-based...
 
useless useless said:
There were some house manufacturers who experimented with heating coils in the sill to reduce moisture migration and improve the climate in the crawl space. The same thing as the safety guard, but factory-installed and waterborne...
Exactly this.

But I don't really understand how it works now that I'm trying to get into the system. :) But maybe it's a question for another forum, how I turn off the heat in the coils.
 
Open the heat pump and the electrical box and check what is connected to R1/R2 on the terminal block.
 
What does this tell me?
 
  • Close-up of electrical wiring and connectors labeled "FRYS ACK," with various colored wires organized in a junction box.
  • An electrical control panel with various wires, connectors, and switches inside a metal enclosure.
  • Electrical panel with wires and components, including a transformer marked EA01648A 150W and a circuit board with LED indicators.
The simplest way is to turn off the heat pump and unplug the plug from the wall socket. Then, disconnect the brown circled wire, plug in the plug, and turn the heat pump back on.

A series of electrical wires in a panel, with a red circle highlighting a specific brown wire labeled "FRYS KONT.
 
Click here to reply
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.