Hi,
I am planning a garage construction and understand that there shouldn't be any issues using 45x120 for the framework (providing good insulation opportunities, 120+45). The width will be 4.8 meters and the length 9 meters with a gable roof at 27 degrees.
The question is whether it is okay from a strength perspective to use short studs 45x120x2500 c14 instead of, for example, 45x120 c24 which would then need to be cut at least once.
It would be a few thousand kronor more expensive but save a few hours of work. In total, it would be about 50 studs (25 to 50 cuts).
Any thoughts or experiences regarding this?
I am planning a garage construction and understand that there shouldn't be any issues using 45x120 for the framework (providing good insulation opportunities, 120+45). The width will be 4.8 meters and the length 9 meters with a gable roof at 27 degrees.
The question is whether it is okay from a strength perspective to use short studs 45x120x2500 c14 instead of, for example, 45x120 c24 which would then need to be cut at least once.
It would be a few thousand kronor more expensive but save a few hours of work. In total, it would be about 50 studs (25 to 50 cuts).
Any thoughts or experiences regarding this?
It is perfectly fine to use C 14 timber for vertical studs in a wall. If you brace them at mid-height with noggings, such a stud can withstand approximately 16 kN (1.6 tons) in a central load. For beams, trusses, etc., you should always choose C 24 timber, as the difference matters much more there.
I don't quite understand how it can save a few hours of work? I always trim the studs myself and I wouldn't trust them to be exactly 2500mm.
From experience, the most time is saved by working with straight studs when framing wall structures. If the studs are screwed, it always becomes much more difficult to get a flat and straight wall. C24 studs tend to be a bit better in this regard than C14.
In terms of strength, I completely agree with the above. C14 is also more than sufficient.
From experience, the most time is saved by working with straight studs when framing wall structures. If the studs are screwed, it always becomes much more difficult to get a flat and straight wall. C24 studs tend to be a bit better in this regard than C14.
In terms of strength, I completely agree with the above. C14 is also more than sufficient.
If you still have to cut precisely, then of course you don't save any time. Maybe I'm thinking completely wrong.V vectrex said:
Another thought I had was that a short stud at 2500 mm gives the least waste. If you cut a 4800 mm in half, I get no waste but 100 mm lower ceiling height. Choosing an even longer stud results in a lot of waste unless I'm building a taller garage, which the municipality might have something to say about.
A miter saw on a stand and a list of all the lengths you need, and you'll cut that in no time.E earlo said:
If the studs need to be exactly 2500, I would buy 5400 studs and get 2 out of each. There will be some waste, but it's almost negligible.
Much depends on the lumber merchant and their sorting. If you need 2.5 m lengths, the wood should preferably be 5.1 m. It is an important part of planning to calculate how much material and which dimensions you need. C 24 wood is taken from better sorting, which mainly means fewer knots. C 14 in short lengths can be more expensive than C 24 in normal lengths. For a framing structure in a garage, it's not a big issue.
I'm building a garage now and used a 45x145 stud as well as 45x45 in the walls.E earlo said:
But then you're primarily basing it on the amount of insulation that needs to fit.P Putte 9497 said:
I'm going to heat the garage with a heat pump and want it properly insulated. But I didn't want to build weaker than 45x145. Additionally, it was a recommendation from the truss manufacturer.J justusandersson said:
The span of the roof as well as the area's snow zone obviously have great significance. A double garage in Norrland provides different conditions. For a single car garage in southern Sweden, lighter timber is sufficient.
My garage is built in Örebro
One advantage of 45x145 timber is that it can withstand a greater load without noggings. The noggings serve as bracing in the weak direction of the timber. The smaller the dimension you work with, the more you have to consider lateral bracing.
Saves time.... Yes, it depends on how you look at it. I would have probably used at least 170 x 45, to be cautious, with potential snow risks. I myself live in Skåne, with that reasoning. Besides, I personally think it's unwise to skimp on a roof construction. The material you get in short studs is often of poorer quality, the better pieces are found in full lengths.E earlo said:
But then transportation becomes trickier. But these are my opinions, I'm sure there are some who don't agree at all.
Good luck!
I built my double carport using 220 x 90 as beams. With 170 x 45 as rafters. But the structure is 25x8m in area.
But you can build a fairly substantial garage. Or a residential house for that matter, with 95x45 in the walls. Normally, you have nail battens on the outside and sheet material on the inside. Sometimes even horizontal 45x45. All of this braces against buckling in the weak axis.
The dimension of the wall studs is normally not determined by strength but by the amount of insulation you want to fit in.
The dimension of the wall studs is normally not determined by strength but by the amount of insulation you want to fit in.