I have done exactly such a ceiling in my hallway. You fill the gap with lightweight filler, not regular filler. It's also easy to sand the lightweight filler, but the advantage is that it doesn't shrink. Then you put up a painter's canvas on it with wallpaper paste. You have to be very careful with the seams on the canvas so that it looks nice when you paint. You can either buy a pre-primed canvas or apply a layer of wallpaper paste on it before painting, so it doesn't require as much paint. The result will be great.
 
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Emmazk
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D Daniel__s said:
You seemed to know what you were after yet you ask for help:thinking: and get it wrong..hope it works out
thank you for your insightful comment, now it feels much better!
 
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Kätting and 10 others
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ingenmansland ingenmansland said:
I have done exactly such a ceiling in my hallway. You fill the gap with lightweight filler, not regular filler. It's also possible to sand that filler, but the advantage is that it doesn't shrink. Then you put up a painter's canvas on it with wallpaper paste. You have to be very careful with the seams on the canvas so that it looks good when you paint. You can either buy a pre-primed canvas or apply a layer of wallpaper paste on it before painting, so it doesn't require as much paint. The result will be great.
okay, I'll do that! Thank you so much! :)
 
M Mortsken said:
Can't a bigger ditch be scraped out?
Of course, it's not fun and will probably create quite a bit of dust.
Thanks for the idea, though I think it will be difficult since the screws are there. :)
 
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honung
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Thanks for all the answers!
I will go to the hardware store tomorrow and question his advice and ask him to explain how he thinks I should putty this.

But then, as you say, I'll putty and apply fabric, and never trust a salesperson again. You learn something new every day.
 
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Goelette and 2 others
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EddieHansson
  • Fill the joint with filler
  • Glue a strip of paper. Use regular wood/paper glue
  • Fill over with a wide trowel to minimize the 'ridge' that forms.
 
EddieHansson EddieHansson said:
  • Fill the joint with filler
  • Glue a paper strip. Use regular wood/paper glue
  • Apply filler with a wide spatula to minimize the 'ridge' that forms.

It will never turn out well for an "amateur". Even if you succeed with the filling, there will be differences when painting where there is filler compared to paper.
To do it really well, you can glue on a fiber cloth and then you only need to fill in the unevenness with any filler beforehand. Of course, it would have been better with completely straight-cut gypsum boards, but you still have to fill over the screws so it's not much extra work to fill in the chamfer.
 
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Anonymiserad 168520
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Tomture61
When I ordered my house, it ended up with plasterboard, the idea being that the seams should be visible. When I screwed up the boards, I thought it would look better with completely smooth ceilings, so I filled all the seams. In low-angle light, all the seams were visible, probably because the boards were not manufactured with consistent thickness. It ended with me putting up renovation fabric/wallpaper on all the ceilings.
 
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Emmazk
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EddieHansson
useless useless said:
It will never be good for an "amateur". Even if you succeed well with the putty, there will be differences when you paint where there is putty compared to paper. To make it really good, you glue up a fiber cloth and then you only need to fill in irregularities with your choice of putty beforehand. It would of course have been better with completely straight-cut plasterboards, but you still have to putty over the screws, so it's not much extra work to fill in the chamfer.
Yes, that's obviously the risk. Maybe best to let the seams show, as the boards are intended for?
 
E Emmazk said:
Thank you for all the answers! I will go to the hardware store tomorrow to question his advice and ask him to explain how he thinks I should spackle this.

But then, as you say, I'll spackle and apply fabric, and never trust a seller again. You learn something new every day.
It's not entirely wrong of him. Regular drywall is tapered on the sides and not on the bottom. There are special boards with tapering on all sides, but they are not very common. Moreover, it's incredibly challenging to put up large drywall panels on the ceiling. You need a drywall lift to make it easier. Additionally, you'll need to do a full skim coat on the ceiling, which is also quite difficult. So I would say he's not exactly wrong, he just gave the advice he personally preferred.

Just remember that spackling and sanding are incredibly important to get right for a good result. Make sure to have light from the side (grazing light) when you do it. That way, you can see if it's even. The painter's fabric doesn't cover any unevenness; it just ensures there are no cracks when the house moves.
 
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Erik Gustafson and 2 others
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Go to the same store and see if you can find another salesperson and ask what you should use if you want a smooth ceiling. If he suggests regular plasterboard, ask playfully that there are plasterboard ceilings with a small bevel on all sides. The salesperson might then say, No no, you absolutely shouldn't use those (if you're lucky). Then you say you asked the same question to his colleague who advised you to use exactly those.

They should at least cover the cost for Microlite on the ceiling, as the work for filling and painting is the same.
 
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fremax and 3 others
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I also installed such panels and used a microlit cloth after spackling. Turned out really well!
 
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Emmazk and 1 other
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D
On 200 m2 of extended ceiling area, we installed regular large drywall sheets (using screws 30cc), wide plastered the joints with reinforcement mesh, and painted it. It turned out completely smooth and nice. After 9 years, you can notice a small crack in one room. Maybe it's an advantage that the ceiling is in a stone house?

But it should work well for you too to get a smooth ceiling.
 
sunnis
E Emmazk said:
Thanks for all the answers! Going to the hardware store tomorrow to question his advice and ask him to explain how he thinks I should plaster this.

But then I'll do as you say, plaster and put up lining, and never trust a salesperson again. You learn something new every day.
You have put up ceiling drywall. If you're going to apply some form of fiber lining anyway, it doesn't matter if it's regular boards or ceiling drywall. You also need to chamfer tape/plaster the short sides of regular wall drywall just like ceiling drywall. If you use wall drywall, you need to rent a panel lift and set up floor protection, etc.

I don't think you have much ground to stand on to put him/her in their place.
 
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Jakobk and 1 other
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Excel
Used such screws and plastered, no problems.
 
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Emmazk
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