We are going to build a new 1.5 villa with a "prepared upper floor" (insulated with spaced paneling and chipboard on the floor).
We will do the upper floor ourselves.
1. We also thought of putting up an interior wall on the lower floor to make an extra room; they wanted 10,000 SEK for it, so I'd rather do it myself and place it exactly where I want it. However, there's underfloor heating throughout the lower floor that is 50mm thick (excluding the laminate floor). Is it a bad idea to attach a frame for the wall to the laminate floor? Laminate doesn't move that much, or am I wrong? Underfloor heating of 50mm plus the laminate floor... can I attach the sill plate to the floor then? I've heard there's some kind of clamp system, does anyone know more about this?
2. There will be a lot of work with interior walls on the upper floor. Does anyone have good tips for getting the frame on the floor and ceiling to line up easily and quickly? Should I buy a cross line laser perhaps? I want to get it done as easily as possible. I was thinking of using metal studs U-profile on the floor and ceiling, then wood for standing studs. I don't know if that's typically done; probably not. But it should work, right? Previously, I've only used wood.
3. There will be a toilet on the upper floor. I've never done waterproofing myself, but it doesn't seem too difficult when reading and watching instructional videos and doing it carefully. What do you think, is it unwise to attempt this myself? How much do you think one could save by doing a bathroom oneself compared to hiring a craftsman? The bathroom will probably be about 10 square meters.
4. Do you need blocking for the sink and heavier items if you're using OSB behind the moisture-resistant board in the bathroom?
We will do the upper floor ourselves.
1. We also thought of putting up an interior wall on the lower floor to make an extra room; they wanted 10,000 SEK for it, so I'd rather do it myself and place it exactly where I want it. However, there's underfloor heating throughout the lower floor that is 50mm thick (excluding the laminate floor). Is it a bad idea to attach a frame for the wall to the laminate floor? Laminate doesn't move that much, or am I wrong? Underfloor heating of 50mm plus the laminate floor... can I attach the sill plate to the floor then? I've heard there's some kind of clamp system, does anyone know more about this?
2. There will be a lot of work with interior walls on the upper floor. Does anyone have good tips for getting the frame on the floor and ceiling to line up easily and quickly? Should I buy a cross line laser perhaps? I want to get it done as easily as possible. I was thinking of using metal studs U-profile on the floor and ceiling, then wood for standing studs. I don't know if that's typically done; probably not. But it should work, right? Previously, I've only used wood.
3. There will be a toilet on the upper floor. I've never done waterproofing myself, but it doesn't seem too difficult when reading and watching instructional videos and doing it carefully. What do you think, is it unwise to attempt this myself? How much do you think one could save by doing a bathroom oneself compared to hiring a craftsman? The bathroom will probably be about 10 square meters.
4. Do you need blocking for the sink and heavier items if you're using OSB behind the moisture-resistant board in the bathroom?
Member
· Östergötland
· 253 posts
1. Double-sided tape or a few dabs of good mounting glue, cut the studs so they're a bit tight and you'll have an incredibly strong inner wall that can be moved without damage!
1. a straight wall without a door? there are walls with feet you can screw out.
2. buy a laser ("marker line and a long level work well with metal for the roof and floor.
3. do it yourself, use the same manufacturer (I think you should skip the moisture barrier from, e.g., Biltema.)
4. preferably stud, it's a lot of weight. and if you can afford the extra cost for plywood, go for it. osb is not a good board in my opinion.
2. buy a laser ("marker line and a long level work well with metal for the roof and floor.
3. do it yourself, use the same manufacturer (I think you should skip the moisture barrier from, e.g., Biltema.)
4. preferably stud, it's a lot of weight. and if you can afford the extra cost for plywood, go for it. osb is not a good board in my opinion.
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· Östergötland
· 253 posts
It's not a requirement, but it is the better option!Kane said:
OSB + 1 layer of regular gypsum is common, and that works excellently as well!
They are counting on, of course, 15mm k-plywood p30.Kane said:
osb/3 has twice the moisture movement.
Thank you for your responses!
Sounds smooth. But if you only glue it on the laminate floor, is it a good solution? Feels like you want attachment to the underlying floor too.Patrik Lidstedt said:
1. It is a straight wall between two existing load-bearing walls. There will be a door. The wall is about 4.5m in total.SBH said:
oki doki. glue and short screws into the sill. and of course longer screws where you see the screwing line from the chipboardLinusW said:
absolutely not a wall on top of a laminate floor
Just had a guy over who did self-leveling compound + waterproof membrane for me. I wouldn't have done it nearly as well, and I consider myself reasonably handy. I've done everything else myself, but these aspects are too important to take chances with. Second floor in a wooden house, no, I wouldn't have done it myself 
But it's absolutely doable! Just be careful with all the low-cost waterproofing options.
Kortla + plyfa are to be preferred. They don't cost much extra.
But it's absolutely doable! Just be careful with all the low-cost waterproofing options.
Kortla + plyfa are to be preferred. They don't cost much extra.
Member
· Östergötland
· 253 posts
That would be if the entire laminate floor moves, but I find that very unlikely!LinusW said:
If there is going to be a door, perhaps some screws in the ceiling beam are appropriate.
Unlike SBH, I think it's perfectly fine to place a wall on the floor if you want to be able to remove it easily, and if you avoid through screws, the floor can still float.
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laminate and parquet move, period.Patrik Lidstedt said:
Would be nice to have x-ray vision and see the underfloor heating through the floor and just go ahead with regular screwsSBH said:
Guess I'll have to go at it with the plunge saw and remove the laminate then. Or try to convince the carpenter to throw a beam on the floor directly before they lay the floor maybe hehe
in the ceiling, do you only put screws? nothing to worry about?
lighting in this room then?
lighting in this room then?
No, there shouldn't be any issues with putting it in the ceiling. This wall was an extra option you could choose from the house manufacturer. However, we want to move it a bit. I'll also have a chat with the construction manager. The space is intended to have its own lighting, so the electricity is prepped. Then my electrician friend will come by to run the wiring in the wall we're building for the light switch.SBH said:
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· Östergötland
· 253 posts
Not enough to be a concern, if the wall is going to be permanent then it might be appropriate to ask the builder to finish the flooring where you want the wall, and then lay the floor in the small room yourself^^SBH said:
They are hardly likely to "leave" space for the wall you don't want to pay for!