Is it likely to be stiff enough?
I am going to build two interior walls in a garage. This is to be able to use a 93 mm frame and to attach the molding flush with the frame. Then the wall, including OSB and gypsum, is about 95 mm.

While I'm at it - how do I attach the floor joist to the concrete?
I have underfloor heating in the concrete. I was thinking of fastening with glue, but do I need to lay plastic in between?
Then I need to glue the plastic to the concrete and the joist to the plastic.
Or can I attach the joist directly to the concrete?
 
45*45 is sufficient for a regular inner wall. How deep the floor heating is located can be shallow drilled if the pipe is a bit further down.
 
It should be around 5 cm down - I tied it to the rebar that I placed on 50 mm spacers
 
Then you can drill 3 cm, it's enough if you fasten it with the reglarna afterwards.
 
  • Like
Robinilso
  • Laddar…
Use sheet metal layouts with foam/plastic underneath instead of wooden studs against the floor/ceiling. Then you can place wooden studs in between.
Short nail plugs or bolt gun to fasten the layouts.
 
Okay, but I'm a bit hesitant - it wouldn't be fun to make a hole in a hose ;)

How should I proceed with gluing?
 
It works to glue a standard wooden beam with, for example, PL400 or similar directly to the concrete... it's best if it is painted or primed beforehand...
 
I would, as xibeca suggests, use metal anchors, drill and attach these with 5x20 nail plugs in metal. Drill stop or tape on the drill so I don't hit the pipes.
In case of uncertainty, I would rent a wall scanner like Bosch D-Dect to find the pipes and then possibly drill deeper with longer nail plugs.
 
Ok, thanks for the tips ;)
 
With sheet metal rule with foam underneath, the question is whether much more is needed if there is an interference fit against the ceiling.

Protte
 
Click here to reply
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.