Building interior walls. How to fasten vertical studs to the horizontal ones

[torporoman]

I am going to build interior walls, and I suspect it might be easiest to attach the horizontal ones first, and then slot in the vertical ones. I have a 34-degree framing nailer (nail gun, Senco) and 90 mm nails, but I don't think it's sturdy enough when I toe-nail. I tried assembling a wall with 120 mm screws instead (through the horizontal plank, into the vertical one) and wow, what a difference in stiffness it made!

Should I try to build all the walls lying down and nail or screw into the ends and then raise the wall, or should I nail everything in place?

Raising the wall is fine where the ceiling battens run the same direction as the wall, but where the battens run 90 degrees to the wall (the interior wall) it might be tight for space during the raising.

I'm using 45x70 studs to hold 15mm plywood and wet room boards, so I want everything to be sturdy.

 

[StevieGee]

Set horizontal steel studs. A screw from each side into the vertical one. You're not building a bomb shelter, are you? :-D

 

[torporoman]

I can only access from one side. And yes, I'm (almost) building a shelter if you ask those who've seen my construction. I saw a video where they used angle iron, there will be a heck of a lot of iron and screws = time-consuming.

I'm considering making the longest wall in 2 sections. Then I can lower it into the floor joists when I raise the wall, and then slide the wall into place. Then I screw the sections together.

 

[Tosse]

It will become stiff enough from the skivorna later.

 

[HogeN]

usually nail when having the opportunity to raise the wall. If not, then I screw the vertical ones with e.g. 5x70 diagonally on each side up&down to

 

[torporoman]

3 out of 4 walls done now. The only one I couldn't lift due to the diagonal height, I made shorter so it went down between the floor joists. So I lifted it a bit, let the bottom go down between the joists, and then lifted it upwards, aligned it vertically, and slid it into place. It sounds easier than it was, but it worked (the vapor barrier caught and I had to press the wall upwards with a crowbar to pull back the sheeting, hammered everything in with a hand sledgehammer...).

The other two I lifted up between the ceiling spars and straightened the wall there, before I hand-sledgehammered it inward against the load-bearing frame.

The last wall will be tomorrow, it will be up against a slanted timber frame so I have to wedge saw every stud. Sigh.

 

[useless]

When attaching studs to slanted log walls, metal angles are indispensable.

 

[torporoman]

Yep, but I will not attach them to the log wall actually. The entire extension I am building is freestanding to avoid issues with different movements between the building structures.