Building inner wall with ventilation

[claym]

Nooo, I really don't want to

 

[Rabbithole]

If you tension it enough, it will not move. A foam between the beam and the floor provides a bit better grip.

 

[claym]

Yes, spacing of about 5-8 mm was exactly my thought for it to be good and stable. What type of foam is recommended?

 

[claym]

like this?
https://www.byggmax.se/fönster/montering-och-tillbehör-fönster/fogskum-p18105

 

[Rabbithole]

No, not foam sealant. I was thinking regular underlay foam or sill insulation.

https://www.byggmax.se/golv/undergolv-och-läggning/underlagsfoam-p65902

 

[claym]

Ahhh perfect! I've been searching for exactly this, and it's sound-reducing too! Thank you so much!

 

[Björn Melander]

Another option is to apply a latex sealant beneath the baseboard. It adheres really well and can be scraped off the floor when the wall needs to be dismantled. The sealant is good for soundproofing, as is EPDM rubber. Foam is not good for soundproofing, if that's important in your case. If so, the air transfer devices and the door will be more critical points.

You make the penetration for the air transfer in MDF or plywood, a small box that fits the grille's frame.

 

[claym]

Actually got the same tip from a friend to apply latex jointing, and also to apply it in vertical joints in OSB as well as applying jointing between OSB and ceiling/floor. It would be nice to have it as soundproof as possible, but I realize that sound will leak through the door and grate, so maybe I shouldn't worry too much about making the wall 100% perfect when it comes to soundproofing.

 

[Rabbithole]

You can choose a soundproof door and vent if you think it's important.

 

[claym]

I'm probably going to go with a regular door and vent.

I was in the house yesterday (we got access yesterday) and started figuring out where the wall should go, etc. When I looked at the ceiling in the room where the wall is to be built, I noticed that the ceiling was 'soft', I don't know how to explain it, but if you press on it, it gives way before it becomes firm (i.e. before it 'hits' what's behind it), it seems a bit porous in some way, i.e. easy to get cracks. I don't think it's plasterboard up there but rather some other material the previous owner has put up (could it be tretex?). I don't know what's behind it, but if I were to guess, there's another ceiling there, which could be nice.

So the question is how do I tackle this? Placing the vertical studs under tension will cause the ceiling (or that material) to bow inward. As I see it, I have 2 options:

1. Take a jigsaw and cut out a narrow groove about 70 wide (since the stud is 70 wide), attach the steel stud in the groove against the solid ceiling behind. The advantage here is also that I get a view of what's behind.
2. Tear down the entire ceiling, build the wall, install a new ceiling. I don't really want this as it looks nice and I don't know what I would put as a new ceiling (plasterboard?)

Any tips?

 

[henke_benke]

I will probably go with a normal door and vent.

I was in the house yesterday (we got access yesterday) and started figuring out where the wall should be placed, etc. When I checked the ceiling in the room where the wall is to be built, I noticed that the ceiling was 'soft'. I don't know how to explain it but when you press on it, it gives a bit before it becomes firm (i.e., before it 'hits' what is behind it), seems a bit porous in some way, meaning easy to get cracks. I don't think it's plasterboard there but rather some other material that previous owners have put up (could it be tretex?). I don't know what's behind it, but if I were to guess, another ceiling is there which could be nice.

The question now is how I tackle this? Placing the vertical studs under tension will make the ceiling (or that material) buckle inward. As I see it, I have two options:

1. Take something like a jigsaw and cut a narrow groove with a width of about 70 (since the stud is 70 wide), attach the steel stud in the groove against the firm ceiling that is behind. The advantage here is also that I get a picture of what's behind it.
2. Tear down the entire ceiling, build the wall, put up a new ceiling. I would prefer not to do this as it looks nice, and I don't know what I would use as the new ceiling (plasterboard?)

Any tips?

take a picture of the ceiling

 

[Björn Melander]

You can use metal studs for framing and glue the extension (wall plate) with mounting adhesive. Pre-tension so that the soft boards lie against the sparse paneling if they hang down locally. If you want a safety belt, you can supplement with some drywall anchors for sheet material (the type you screw spax into).

 

[claym]

Don't know if it helps as it is completely white and smooth

 

[henke_benke]

Don't know if it helps since it's completely white and smooth

curious if it could be vävtak

 

[claym]

You can use metal studs and glue the runner (hammarbandet) with mounting adhesive. Pre-tension so that the soft boards rest against the thin panel if they hang down locally. If you want extra security, you can supplement with some drywall anchors for sheet material (the type you screw spax into).

Maybe I was unclear, but the ceiling is not sagging today; it is flat and fine. I will be using metal studs in the ceiling and floor. But my concern was that as the ceiling stud will be pushed up (because the vertical studs are a bit longer), the soft ceiling will crack/bulge outside the installed OSB and gypsum boards that I will cover the frame with.