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7 replies
6k views
7 replies
Building an insulated room inside an uninsulated outhouse - how to do?
I have an uninsulated outbuilding with a concrete slab. Additionally, I am a beekeeper and would like to build an insulated room inside part of the outbuilding to have a place to extract honey. However, I'm having trouble knowing how to do it properly to avoid moisture problems, especially from the concrete slab in the building. The house itself is estimated to be from the 1940s and not very well-drained.
I think I can use the existing walls as regular outer walls and frame, insulate, and put up panels on the walls.
Where I feel uncertain is how to handle the floor. I would like to put a floor on top of the concrete slab that I insulate in some way. However, I feel unsure about how to do it. Here are the options I have seen:
What are your thoughts on my suggestions? Are there better suggestions?
/Niklas
I think I can use the existing walls as regular outer walls and frame, insulate, and put up panels on the walls.
Where I feel uncertain is how to handle the floor. I would like to put a floor on top of the concrete slab that I insulate in some way. However, I feel unsure about how to do it. Here are the options I have seen:
- Lay suitable insulation and pour a new slab on top.
- Frame up a wooden floor. It probably builds up too much and how does it work with moisture?
- Break up the floor and lay gravel and IsoDrain boards and pour a new floor at the same level.
What are your thoughts on my suggestions? Are there better suggestions?
/Niklas
The easiest way is probably to frame up a floor, provided you can accept the construction height.
Apply tar paper on the surface that will be on the floor.
Attach strips a bit up on the beams (for an air gap underneath) and insert foam panels as insulation.
Apply tar paper on the surface that will be on the floor.
Attach strips a bit up on the beams (for an air gap underneath) and insert foam panels as insulation.
Grundstött
· Halland
· 28 345 posts
Why not start with a platonmatta, so the concrete can "breathe" 
Then, as Larsa says, a layer of cellplast, 30 or 50 mm.
And then a click floor on top of that. The cheapest and most durable is laminate, but wood works too.
Then, as Larsa says, a layer of cellplast, 30 or 50 mm.
And then a click floor on top of that. The cheapest and most durable is laminate, but wood works too.
I like the thing about breathing. Is it possible to use Isodrän boards or similar instead of foam plastic and get the same effect as laying a platon mat underneath?
I then like to lay a click floor over it to get a nice floor.
I then like to lay a click floor over it to get a nice floor.
You asked a good question about when it should be warm. It should not be heated all year round. The time I want the right temperature is from spring to late autumn, and then it's not so cold outside. I'm always afraid of building in moisture problems and probably haven't fully formulated the entire problem in the original post.
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