The mother-in-law's steps leading up to the porch are downright dangerous today, steep and in poor condition.
So I thought, if you want to be in good standing there, you'd fix a new one before someone falls and gets hurt.
I've never done this before but I thought, how hard can it be...
The conditions are that the porch is made of wood. The steps are attached there and go down to a concrete slab.
I thought I'd try to attach it to the wooden porch and then possibly just drill holes in the slab to insert some kind of pegs that you drill holes for in the stringer.
I’m attaching a picture which I believe has all the details.
How does it look? I don't want to finish building it only to realize, dang, that didn’t turn out well...
Additionally, I have hidden the nearest piece to provide a better view.
What the steps lean against is wood in reality and the porch is level with that piece, which is 1000mm from the ground.
When you are designing a staircase, it is helpful in the planning process to use the so-called stair formula. This states that the relationship between the tread (b) and the riser (h=height measurement between each tread) should be 2h+b=60-63 expressed in cm. If your treads are 25 cm, the riser should be 17.5-19 cm. You are slightly below the optimal height/have too shallow treads. If you increase the depth of the treads to 27-30 cm and keep the height measurement, the staircase will be more comfortable to walk on.
When you are designing a staircase, planning is made easier by using the so-called staircase formula. This states that the relationship between the tread (b) and the riser (h=height measurement between each tread) should be 2h+b=60-63 expressed in cm. If your treads are 25 cm, the riser should be 17.5-19 cm. So you are a bit on the low side for height/have too little depth in the steps. If you increase the tread depth to 27-30 cm and keep the height measurement, the staircase will be better to walk on.
Then the staircase should become longer?
Increasing the length of the treads shouldn’t really count, is it only the visible part that counts if you are looking straight down at the staircase? So if the step is further in under the above step, it doesn't count?
I previously tried the staircase with one step less, but then it became too darn steep again.
When drawing stairs, one tries to achieve a comfortable stride length and not too steep an incline. Poorly designed stairs are annoying. The depth of the treads is usually measured from nosing to nosing, so sliding the treads under each other is not a good solution unless you make them extra deep. You have probably made the right assessment regarding the number of steps. When I draw outdoor stairs, I usually try to keep the step height around 17 cm. If possible, use two 45x145 boards as treads and slide them 3 cm under the next nosing, and I think you'll be satisfied with the result.
Where you drew the measurement is correct. The stride length is from the front edge of one step to the front edge of the next. The height is not worth discussing. 166 is perfect. As Justsus writes, the stride length should be a little larger than you planned. Increase to 145+145 and it will be good.
I have a completely different viewpoint. You have drawn with external stringers. It's nice. It can feel simple. But it sucks in winter when you have to remove snow and ice. Consider using internal stringers with wedges to nail the steps on instead. That will look good too.
I can do that on all levels except the top one where there is a board in the way, see the picture where I painted red. 166.75mm as it turns out is still quite close to 170mm, so I think it will be pretty good. And I think 45mm thick should withstand the pressure when it is not wider than 950.
Excellent.
I have built two such stairs that remain stable with untreated wood. However, I added a step at the same height as the upper bridge level, allowing the stringers to extend over the bridge surface. They can be cut so that they support themselves on the bridge surface. This eliminates the need to brace the foot to prevent the staircase from collapsing. The feet of my staircase rest on convex cobblestones that allow moisture to be ventilated away a little. Otherwise, you can cover the foot with sill paper (not as attractive).
I would use narrower step planks, perhaps 3 pieces of 45x75, which would reduce the unevenness when they warp.
I have toenailed my step planks to the stringers with partially broken 4-inch nails. However, they tend to creep out after 2-3 years, so I occasionally have to hammer them back in.
The weak point is the pieces you call supports. I would check those occasionally.
I would definitely build with good untreated wood. So much nicer in color and for little bare feet.
A cross-brace underneath provides much better stability.
Good luck!
Where you've drawn the measurement is correct. The step length is from the front edge of one step to the front edge of the next step. The height is nothing to talk about. 166 is perfect. As Justsus writes, the step length should be a bit larger than you've planned. Go up to 145+145 and it will be good.
I have a completely different point of view. You've drawn with exterior stringers. It's nice. Can feel simple. But it sucks in winter when you have to remove snow and ice. Consider having underlying stringers with blocks to nail the steps on instead. That looks nice too.
Regards, Findus
I've considered the underlying idea, but it felt a bit complicated...
And the stairs that have been there for the last 15+ years have exterior stringers
34 mm thick timber will probably be too weak for the current width if not reinforced on the underside in some way. If you want to create a more sculpturally beautiful staircase, you should have slightly recessed stringers underneath the steps as well as risers that close vertically. However, that might be overkill. Overall, I think many good points have been made.
34 mm thick timber will probably be too weak for the current width unless reinforced underneath in some way. If you want to make a more sculpturally beautiful staircase, you should have slightly recessed stringers that lie under the steps, as well as risers that close vertically. But that might be advanced stuff. Overall, I think many good points have been made.
With a vertical riser in my design, it will be difficult to keep clean.
I think I'll stick to my idea, otherwise, I might build another model.
Yes, I am pleasantly surprised by all the tips that have come in
Click here to reply
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.
