build your own roof trusses, CRAZY?

[roland53]

One should not forget the quality of the wood.

For roof trusses, it is graded wood that is used, in serious cases.

This wood is normally more expensive. So just nailing together roof trusses with whatever you think looks good is not recommended.

Especially considering what has happened in recent years with collapsed roofs on sports halls, etc., due to snow load. Admittedly, these roof trusses were made of steel, but the snow doesn't care what material the truss is made of...

 

[KnockOnWood]

Have you calculated what the material would cost if you build it yourself?

220 x 45 C24 costs 45 SEK/m here, and it takes about 32 m per truss + tie beam, making it 1,500 SEK.
Additionally, there are supports, collar tie, splice plywood, glue, screws, and waste.
Plus transport and labor time.

I would undoubtedly buy it, and get everything straight and correct.

 

[Krillew]

When I built my workshop, I made the trusses myself, but when I expanded the house, I ordered them and I thought that the price I got was something I could never manufacture them for myself. Keep in mind that it must be graded timber in trusses if you have a building permit. Maybe they have better prices where I buy. http://www.uppsalatra.se/

 

[camaro1969]

Have you calculated what the material would cost if you build it yourself?

220 x 45 C24 costs 45 kr/lm here, and it takes about 32 m per truss + tie beam, which makes 1,500 kr.
You also need struts, collar tie, splice-plywood, glue, screws, and waste.
Plus delivery and labor time.

I would undoubtedly buy, and get everything straight and proper.

Where do you buy the timber KoW? byggmax has C24 for 35:- per meter, and how do you calculate the consumption? when I calculate generously, I get it to 25 meters 45x220 which becomes 875:- but sure, everything else costs

 

[KnockOnWood]

Where do you buy the lumber, KoW? Buildmax has c24 for 35:- per meter, and how do you calculate the requirement? When I calculate excessively, I get it to 25 meters of 45x220 which would be 875:- but of course, everything else costs

I buy at GS-building materials, it's the closest and has the best service. Looked at longer, finger-jointed, beams. Up to 5.4 m length they indeed cost 35 kr/m.

Regarding the length, I calculated 6.4 m x 2 + 10.1 m + 9.1 m for the central beam; thought you mentioned it was included.

Then you have to consider the waste. Unsure of what it might be. But there are many joints in the drawing.

Regarding your idea to double to 440 mm height on the lower frames, I think this: There should be longitudinal beams along the support legs. Skip the central beams, and place shorter beams between the support legs on top of this longitudinal beam, so you have something to lay the floor on. In the attic spaces, you aren't going to have a floor anyway. And then you spray loose-fill insulation over everything (before the floor is laid, of course ).

But you should probably consult an experienced builder/carpenter first

PS
Interesting how they place the support legs. I also have a 38° roof pitch on my house. But the width is 8.4 m compared to your 9.1 m. (Clearly, a garage should be larger than a residential house ) And on this house, I have 5 m between the support legs, where you only have 4 m. That provides more space in the storage attic.

 

[KnockOnWood]

PS
My roof trusses are designed and manufactured by Derome.

 

[camaro1969]

Okay, I understand,

but I don't think the truss manufacturer used finger-jointed studs? They probably join with metal plates.

Do you have free-span trusses where you get 5 meters on the upper floor? I guess these are designed to handle just that.

Your idea of building up the height is good from the perspective of adding more insulation, but since the ceiling height is only 2.2 meters, I probably can't build up more height, I want to be able to walk up there without hitting my head.

But insulation at 220 might be enough in the storage area and 440 in the catwalk.

I was thinking of laying some simple flooring in the catwalks to store stuff there... (you accumulate a lot when you have classic cars as a hobby )

But I looked a bit more at the drawing I received and it says that the walls should be covered with panels... so I asked the designer about this and it was apparently a requirement for the strength to be valid, can it really be so? I mean, the trusses have cc 1200, are you supposed to place an OSB lengthwise between the trusses, that could hardly be something to account for the strength with? If that's the case, it should be studded, and then I can understand it, but it's not visible on the drawing anyway...

 

[KnockOnWood]

...do you have free-spanning roof trusses where you get 5 meters on the upper floor? I guess these are designed to manage precisely this.
...

No, you're naturally right, mine are made for support in the middle.
However, how it affects the placement of support beams, I am too uninformed to understand.

 

[camaro1969]

it leans towards ordering them from the factory... will see if it's possible to discuss the price with them, otherwise it's just a matter of paying up

feels reassuring to know that they hold up, or at least are calculated correctly

 

[larsbj]

This company usually has decent prices, but it might be too long of a shipping time for you. Could be worth checking out anyway.
http://www.roslunde.se/