Build partition wall

[zankan]

Sure, it's solid to use tongue and groove or plywood in the walls. OSB is no problem if used correctly, same with plywood. Unfortunately, installation instructions are not followed by us in the industry. This is mostly due to lack of knowledge. Tongue and groove is certainly stable but wood moves. If you bang the tongue and groove together too tightly, which 9 out of 10 do, there's a high risk of problems.

Personally, I would consider tongue and groove in the walls but probably skip it. There is nothing, absolutely nothing, about tongue and groove that's better than plywood or OSB in a wall. Possibly in an exterior wall that doesn't have plastic as a vapor barrier. Then tongue and groove is decent as a vapor barrier, provided the underlying construction is vapor open, of course.

But if you use tongue and groove, I highly recommend at least putting on a proper plasterboard like 13mm and not 6mm renovation plasterboard. Partly because 13mm plasterboard is stiffer = better sound insulation, not much but it helps. 6mm plasterboard feels flimsy and somewhat like an emergency solution. I've installed this plasterboard in countless bathrooms directly on plastered surfaces where it works okay. I've also used it to make vaulted ceilings in, for example, dormers, but then in multiple layers. But sure, there's nothing saying it won't work, but it's silly to take chances

 

[Jante]

Personally, I would consider using råspont in the walls but probably refrain from it. There is absolutely nothing about råspont that is better than plywood or OSB in a wall.
Possibly in an exterior wall that doesn't have plastic as a vapor barrier. Then råspont is decent as a vapor barrier, provided that the underlying construction is vapor open, though.

There is one thing that's better with råspont, more "quality time" with the hammer Then I'm a bit unsure what chemicals plywood and OSB release ??? Hopefully not as bad as particle board.

Right material in the right place, do NOT have plastic in the exterior walls and yes, a darn pleasant indoor climate ;D

 

[zankan]

The emissions from OSB and plywood are indeed present. But not as bad as particleboard... Usually, that's not a problem anyway... And nailing is indeed quality time lucky I've hung up the hammer, have nailed too many nails. The next time I will nail will be when moving to a house. And I hope it takes time.

 

[Matti]

OSB is not a problem if used correctly, the same with plywood. Unfortunately, the installation instructions are not followed by us in the industry. This is mainly due to a lack of knowledge.

What is the correct way if you are installing OSB under the gypsum?

 

[zankan]

What is the correct way if you put up OSB under the gypsum?

You should have 2-3 mm in the panel joints on OSB. Even plywood should have this gap... I used to go with a folding rule thickness, works well and convenient too

 

[Immobil]

Then the råspont is decent as a vapor retarder, provided that the underlying construction is diffusion open of course.

Is it possible that the råspont is vapor tight? ??? Please explain how if so.

 

[zankan]

It becomes the most diffusion-tight layer in the construction. It is not completely tight but the tightest, which is a significant difference. I don't have exact numbers, but plastic has a Z value of 5000*10^3 in diffusion value, which is essentially tight; wood has around 500*^3, which is okay. But I advocate for plastic. For the simple reason that we generate so much more moisture today than 50 years ago.....
Forza diffusion barrier of plastic!

 

[Immobil]

But I advocate plastic. For the simple reason that we generate so much more moisture today than 50 years ago.....
Forza diff- barrier of plastic!

OK, I might have misunderstood you in the previous post. :-/ I interpreted it as if one should not use plastic but råspont instead.

 

[zankan]

OK, I might have misunderstood you in the previous post. :-/ I interpreted it as if one should not have plastic but råspont instead.

THAT way you can see it, but it's pushing the limits of good taste

 

[tommiz]

Sorry for hijacking this thread. I have myself screwed a 12mm chipboard behind all the drywall in the house (with staggered joints). Entirely because chipboard costs only 59kr per board. What does the chipboard emit that is unhealthy? I haven't had any problems screwing into the chipboard. I also know that several newly built Fiskarhedenvillor in the area use chipboard behind the drywall. Have I built a toxic house? :-[
/ Tommy

 

[ClasseClas]

I also have double boards, chipboard and gypsum, and I’m still alive!

The chipboards are from Byggelit and have a completely different quality than the needlessly porous boards that Byggmax sells.

Some propaganda from Byggelit, which is well aware of the chipboard's environmental reputation:

"Question: Do chipboards contain a lot of formaldehyde, is it dangerous?

Answer: It is unfortunately a widespread misconception that chipboards emit (release) large amounts of formaldehyde. Some also do not know that formaldehyde is a very, very common substance that exists in small amounts in the free air everywhere. It is found, for example, in varying amounts in natural wood, in fabrics, paints, fruits, soaps, shampoos, glue, adhesive, paper, etc. Tobacco smoke emits large amounts of formaldehyde, yes practically this substance is present in our entire environment. Chipboards are one of the most controlled products in this regard. The truth is that the low emission value required by the Swedish Chemicals Agency for the Swedish market is 0.13 mg per m3 of air in indoor air. Byggelit's production is under continuous control through an agreement with the National Testing and Research Institute, SP, regarding formaldehyde content and emission. To ensure that our products always meet the lowest values, we must have complete production control at all times. The average emission from Byggelit's chipboards is significantly lower than the permissible limit value and is close to what ordinary untreated natural wood emits. Byggelit's chipboards are SWAN-LABELED."

True, not true? You decide!

 

[ohlgren]

Hey there,

I am going to build a simple partition wall between two bedrooms with wooden studs and gypsum board.
My question is whether 45x45 studs are sufficient or if it needs to be sturdier wood? It won't be load-bearing in any way, just to hold up gypsum and wallpaper.

I'm hijacking this old thread and adding a question about whether to use plastic in partition walls?

I have a carpenter (from Poland) who claims that it's a good idea to put plastic under the gypsum on both sides of the partition wall. At all the builds he's worked on in Norway and Sweden, they have constructed this way. The reason is to prevent insulation from creeping out through the wall and causing coughing and etc when it floats around in the air.

Sounds reasonable, but there might be a risk of trapping moisture that then causes mold?
That is, you nail into the wall, puncture the plastic, moisture finds its way in and then doesn't come out.

Or maybe one should use some kind of non-diffusion-tight plastic or that kind of wind protection foil?

Comments?

 

[zankan]

That was the dumbest thing I've ever heard....

What's the next thing going to be? That you're supposed to apply primer and waterproofing on all walls if you're ever going to build a wet room there in the future?

 

[andersmc]

No, there should be no plastic in partitions, and the insulation doesn't "creep out." He's got that completely wrong.

 

[Krawk]

The gypsum boards seal excellently on their own. Where it might be relevant to use plastic in interior walls is if you're installing only paneling. This can move a bit due to changes in humidity, and then there will be gaps leading to the insulation.