Hello!

I'm about to start renovating a bedroom we have, it's originally 2 rooms, as the room has 2 doors and you can see there used to be a wall in between. I was thinking of putting up a wall in between to make 2 rooms. Should I put the stud on the floor or should I remove the floor first (it's concrete under the laminate floor) for the partition wall and finish the wall, then lay the floor? Or should I lay the floor in the whole room and then build the wall? (drill through the floor and down into the concrete)
I'd love to know in which order I should start with the renovation.
Should I replace the internal doors before fixing the walls, or should I replace the doors last?

Best regards,
Jonathan
 
Are you only replacing the door leaves or also the frames?

In any case, you should tear out the existing floor and put up the new wall; if you're going to install new frames, do it before laying the floor.

Install the door leaves last so you don't scratch them. :)

Laminate floors should be "floating," meaning they should be able to move slightly with changes in temperature and humidity, hence you should not screw a wall stud into them. It also complicates things if you want to replace the laminate floor in the future.
 
I will replace the entire door assembly, including the frames.
Ok, I almost suspected that, I will remove the laminate flooring and lay parquet after I install the partition wall.

I also saw that the space I have to set a partition wall is only 85 mm wide, which is the gap between the two windows. I will use 45*45 and single plasterboard, but I would like to have something behind the plasterboard, but I can't find anything that is a maximum of 7 mm thick. I see that the walls from the bedroom to the living room are built with 45*45 and single plasterboard.
Anyone knows how I should/can do it in the best way?
 
If you want to keep the floor, I would mark out where the wall should stand and cut out that strip with a circular saw set to a depth that doesn't hit the concrete.

Cover the floor with sensible paper - not that brown crap they sell at various building stores, but real "milk paper."

Lay a stud on the floor; I personally find metal studs to be convenient. If you use wooden studs and it's against the base, I would probably recommend using felt paper to prevent moisture from entering the structure. Still, I believe metal is more convenient.

Plumb or use a spirit level or laser to set the stud in the ceiling.

Install the studs against the two outer walls.

Insert the remaining studs and consider the spacing based on the panel material. Measure them with a spirit level.

Mark the center of the OSB if you're using 900 panels before installation, so you know where the stud is located.

Attach OSB on one side, insert insulation, preferably Piano Soundboard.

Attach OSB on the other side - make sure to offset the joints so that the joints on the OSB are not on the same stud as the other side.

Attach the drywall, make sure not to place the drywall joint on the same stud as the OSB joint.

Lift the drywall towards the ceiling if they are slightly too short. (The baseboard will cover the gap)

Spackle - Tape - Paint.

Baseboards.

Replace your doors or door panels after the renovation.

EDIT:
Just read 85mm - I would then use 45 studs with OSB+ROT drywall at 6.5mm in such case = 83mm. And maybe adjust the window trim if needed.
 
Last edited:
Is this law?
 
No, I accidentally wrote in the wrong :) Sorry
 
slacker said:
If you want to keep the floor, I would mark out where the wall should be and cut that strip out with a circular saw set to a depth that doesn't reach the concrete.
Protect the floor with PROPER paper - Not the brown crap they sell at various building stores but real "milk paper".
Lay out a stud on the floor, I personally find metal studs convenient. If you're using wooden studs and it's against the sole, I would recommend lumppapp to prevent moisture from seeping up into the construction. I still find metal more convenient.
Use a plumb line or a spirit level or laser to set the stud in the ceiling.
Put up the studs against the two outer walls.
Add the remaining studs and consider the spacing based on the panel material. Measure them in with a spirit level.
Mark the center on the OSB if you're using 900 panels before mounting, so you know where the stud is.
Attach OSB on one side, add insulation, preferably Piano Sound Board.
Attach OSB on the other side - Remember to stagger the seams so that the seams on the OSB aren't on the same stud as the other side.
Attach drywall, make sure not to place the drywall seam on the same stud as the OSB seam.
Lift the drywall towards the ceiling if they are slightly short. (The skirting board will cover the gap)
Plaster - Tape - Paint.
Skirting boards.
Replace your doors or door leaves after the renovation.

EDIT:
Just read 85mm - I would go with 45 studs with OSB+ROT Gypsum at 6.5mm in that case = 83mm. And maybe adjust the window casing if necessary.
Correcting my own answer - OSB is indeed 11mm and nothing else, so a 45 stud with OSB and 6.5mm drywall gives a total of 80mm.
 
Click here to reply
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.