Bubbles in paper joint tape on drywall, how to do it best?

[Ragganof]

Why then?

You can see how it works on [media]Especially at the 4:36 mark

EDIT: Byggahus cannot link to YouTube with a timestamp.

Because if there was a problem with the paper strip absorbing too much moisture, I would have constant issues with the strip coming off. Again, you can't take a man who clearly has no experience using a spackling knife seriously. I'm thinking of the man in the video.

 

[Ragganof]

So you should let the putty with the tape dry first before applying the next layer? I got the impression that you should follow the instructions above but apply the second layer of putty immediately. Then when it has dried and shrunk, you apply another round of putty?

Simple,.
Putty - tape - putty

 

[Bernieberg]

Simple,.
Putty - rema-putty

Yes, but if you try hard, maybe you can understand that this task isn't super simple for everyone, and then some form of nonsense can be of great help.

 

[Ragganof]

Yes, but if you make an effort, perhaps you can understand that this step isn't very simple for everyone and then some form of silliness can be of great help.

Sure, you're right about that.
If the tape slips, it's too thin or the filler might have dried too quickly.
If you're not quick at applying the filler, I recommend taking maybe 1m at a time.

 

[anders07]

As a happy amateur, it's waterproof adhesive or waterproof primer that applies. I always use waterproof primer, it "glues" directly and dries quickly, and I've never gotten a bubble.

 

[Micke64]

Because if there was a problem with the paper tape absorbing too much moisture, I/the employees would have constant tape release issues. Again, you can't take someone who obviously has zero experience using a putty knife seriously. Thinking about the man in the film.

If it were that simple, not so many would get bubbles. You're welcome to explain in detail what creates a bubble-free tape and what doesn't.

Everyone knows that paper bubbles if it gets wet. It's not really surprising that the tape bubbles if it absorbs moisture from the putty, right? Why is that "man" completely wrong? Now he's claiming to be an instructor from Ivy Tech Community College, so he probably has some form of experience.

 

[Ragganof]

If it were that simple, not so many would have gotten bubbles. Feel free to explain in detail what gives bubble-free tape and what doesn’t.

Everyone knows that paper bubbles if it gets wet. That it bubbles if the tape absorbs moisture from the plaster isn’t entirely surprising, is it? Why is that "man" completely wrong? He claims to be an instructor from Ivy Tech Community College, so he probably has some form of experience.

See above

 

[Klicka]

Do you mean that there will be air bubbles? Or that the cardboard becomes uneven?

 

[snowjim]

The problem I had last summer was that the strip became wavy at the edges, yes, a bit like wet paper simply.

Today I used another strip and I also soaked it, and it didn't get wavy at all.

When the strip is wet, it's much easier for me to attach the strip to the spackle. It's very possible that I have too little spackle in the base, but if I remove the strip, I can see that it's actually attached to the spackle.

What is right and wrong probably depends a lot on experience and method.

In my case, it's very important that it holds together since I've installed gypsum between the basement and entry level, i.e., from concrete to wood in my case. So, some movement can be expected. According to the paint store, however, paper strips should be sufficient, and there's no need for tape or similar.

 

[Ragganof]

The problem I had last summer was that the strip became wavy at the edges, yes, a bit like wet paper simply.

Today I used another strip and I soaked it, and it didn't become wavy at all.

When the strip is wet, I find it much easier to attach it to the filler. It is very possible that I have too little filler in the foundation, but when I pull the strip off, I can see that it is actually attached to the filler.

What is right and wrong probably depends a lot on experience and approach.

In my case, it is very important that it holds together as I have placed gypsum between the basement and the entrance level, i.e. from concrete to wood in my case. So one can expect some movement. According to the paint store, however, paper strips should be sufficient, no need for fabric or similar.

Then your paint store has lied to you, or perhaps lacks experience.
To tape together dead and live material is to ask for trouble.
Fabric is, by the way, extremely sensitive to movements.

 

[snowjim]

Then your paint store has lied to you, possibly lacking experience. Combining dead and living material is asking for trouble. Fiber is extremely sensitive to movements, by the way.

okay, that doesn't sound so good.

What I've done now is to install renovation gypsum (fiber-reinforced) panels that are 60% glued to concrete (basement) and 40% screwed (MANY SCREWS) into wood (ground floor). I have then filled all the joints with joint tape. It's not the joint tapes alone that will hold it together, but mainly the glue, renovation gypsum, and screws.

Is that enough or do I need to fix something more?

Before the renovation, some type of fiber had been embedded and then wallpaper was placed directly on this. There hadn't been any cracks there since the 70s, but the wallpapers were also really thick. However, there were cracks in the joints between particle boards, and there I have now put gypsum and strips, so I hope that counteracts the problem.

Here you can see some pictures before the puttying was done: http://imgur.com/a/KVAXy

 

[Ragganof]

okay, doesn't sound so good.

What I've done now is to put renovation gypsum (glass fiber reinforced) boards that are 60% glued to concrete (basement) and 40% screwed (MANY SCREWS) into wood (entrance level). Then I have now filled all the joints with joint strips. So it's not the joints alone that will hold it together, but primarily glue, renovation gypsum, and screws.

Is that enough or do I need to fix something else?

Before the renovation, they had filled in some type of fabric and then put wallpaper directly on this. There hadn't been any cracks there since the 70s but the wallpapers were also really thick. However, there were cracks in the joints between chipboards and I've now put gypsum and strips there so I hope that counteracts the problem.

Here are some pictures before filling was done: [link]

I see that I misunderstood, I thought you meant you filled together wood and gypsum.
What you've done is completely correct, no need to worry.

 

[Klicka]

There is joint compound that is made for embedding the paper tape. That compound is wetter. Maybe it works better against bubbles.

 

[Ragganof]

There is joint filler made for embedding the paper tape. That filler is wetter. Maybe it works better against bubbles.

Contains more glue, and often has finer sand in it.

 

[Ahm.s]

I say that tape should not be glued if you are a professional painter and have a reasonable hourly rate, but a happy amateur can afford that extra step. The result is not wrong.

How do you glue tape onto wet watery filler? Or do you wait for the first filler to dry and then glue paper tape on it? Thanks in advance for the tips.. I'm new..