We are going to put up Brandén's panel boards (beadboard) on our walls and need some tips. I am completely inexperienced when it comes to panel boards. :blushing: The walls consist of tongue-and-groove wood covered with masonite. The walls are wavy on the surface in some places; I believe it's the wooden wall behind the masonite that is uneven. I have gotten adhesive and brads that I intend to use for the installation.
1. Do I need to spackle the wall before I install the panel board, or should I install the board anyway? I was advised to fill in the uneven parts with cardboard where it's the worst. How should I proceed?
2. The boards are 2390 mm long, and the distance from floor to ceiling is about 2470 mm, which varies.
We are going to replace all floor and ceiling moldings, but we wonder how to handle such a large difference in length between the wall and the board?
We are also thinking of putting up new panel boards on the existing ceiling of the room (mock tongue-and-groove), and we will lay a laminate floor on the wooden floor. So that will slightly reduce the total height.
The question is: Is it better to do the ceiling and floor first, before we do the wall, or can we put up the panel first? Which is wiser?
Best regards, Jarkko
1. Do I need to spackle the wall before I install the panel board, or should I install the board anyway? I was advised to fill in the uneven parts with cardboard where it's the worst. How should I proceed?
2. The boards are 2390 mm long, and the distance from floor to ceiling is about 2470 mm, which varies.
We are going to replace all floor and ceiling moldings, but we wonder how to handle such a large difference in length between the wall and the board?
We are also thinking of putting up new panel boards on the existing ceiling of the room (mock tongue-and-groove), and we will lay a laminate floor on the wooden floor. So that will slightly reduce the total height.
The question is: Is it better to do the ceiling and floor first, before we do the wall, or can we put up the panel first? Which is wiser?
Best regards, Jarkko
hello
1. I think it seems completely wasted to plaster the walls. The cardboard idea feels more sensible. How much does the wall really sway?
2. Well, you'll have to have an 80cm high baseboard
I wonder if you won't be forced to accept butt-jointing the boards.
1. I think it seems completely wasted to plaster the walls. The cardboard idea feels more sensible. How much does the wall really sway?
2. Well, you'll have to have an 80cm high baseboard
I wonder if you won't be forced to accept butt-jointing the boards.Thanks for the answer, but surely you mean 80 mm not cm. 2470 mm-2390 mm= 80 mm... Right?eriobe said:hey
1. I think it seems like a complete waste to spackle the walls. The cardboard idea feels more sensible. How much does the wall actually sway?
2. Well, it seems you'll have to have an 80cm high baseboard
That means an 8cm baseboard or if you prefer 4 cm crown molding and 4 cm baseboard.d^_^b. or however you want to do it.
Hello again.
I have checked the wall. It goes in waves and in the "wave valleys" it can vary between a few mm to about 8 mm.
But now we are discussing at home possibly putting up joists and lowering the ceiling. We are going to put up new boards anyway and possibly add more lighting in the ceiling, possibly spotlights :wow:
Best regards, Jarkko.
I have checked the wall. It goes in waves and in the "wave valleys" it can vary between a few mm to about 8 mm.
But now we are discussing at home possibly putting up joists and lowering the ceiling. We are going to put up new boards anyway and possibly add more lighting in the ceiling, possibly spotlights :wow:
Best regards, Jarkko.
I put up such panels - but mine were about 1200 high, and I put them on a slightly wavy wall and can say it's much easier if it’s straight. You'll find that the adhesive doesn't want to hold the panel, and you'll need to tap in a few nails to keep it in place (which I later removed), then it's not directly rigid, and if there are too many gaps underneath, it can flex and sound hollow. In my case, it was straight enough to force into place, but I wouldn’t want to do it on a very uneven wall.
With beadboard, it looks nice with a high baseboard, they are about 8cm high with an old-school look - use scraps from the panel to space out the bottom of it, and you'll achieve a neat installation.
With beadboard, it looks nice with a high baseboard, they are about 8cm high with an old-school look - use scraps from the panel to space out the bottom of it, and you'll achieve a neat installation.
Hello!
Yes, we are also considering a wide baseboard but with a nice profile, as well as a wide ceiling molding in the same style. "Smartpanel" has some nice ones we've looked at.
We are thinking of having a bit of an old appearance mixed with modern materials in the hallway we are renovating. The house is from 1947, so we want an older style.
Yes, we are also considering a wide baseboard but with a nice profile, as well as a wide ceiling molding in the same style. "Smartpanel" has some nice ones we've looked at.
We are thinking of having a bit of an old appearance mixed with modern materials in the hallway we are renovating. The house is from 1947, so we want an older style.
Older style clashes with spotlights in the ceiling
For beadboard, the skirting board should be high, maybe up to 180 mm, and the ceiling molding preferably a cove mold about 80 x 80 mm.
With such a wall, I would have opted for a real beadboard panel, cheaper and more vibrant if you desire it a bit old-fashioned.
For beadboard, the skirting board should be high, maybe up to 180 mm, and the ceiling molding preferably a cove mold about 80 x 80 mm.
With such a wall, I would have opted for a real beadboard panel, cheaper and more vibrant if you desire it a bit old-fashioned.
We have also put up such panels. It turned out amazing! Our walls are far from straight. We used one package/tube/mounting glue per panel. We also had to screw up small holders that we made ourselves, to keep the panels in place. That the glue grips immediately as stated on the package is not true. The fact that the ceiling is so uneven is, of course, a problem. Have you checked what's underneath? Maybe it's just as well to replace the ceiling panels too while you're at it.