Best wall height in the house?

[Mikael_L]

A small design problem.
The ground floor should have a height of 250 cm and the finished attic 240 cm (or possibly a bit less, down to 230 cm is acceptable).

I'll start the reasoning with the ground floor.
I would prefer to use full 2500 mm panels and avoid cutting and such.

On the slab, there will be a framed inner wall, and after the trusses are in place, this will be built up. So this wall now has the height slab -> underside of the truss lower chord (whatever height it finally becomes), but for now, let's say it's 2500 mm.

What’s the next step? Is it to install the cross battens for the entire ceiling? If so, I need an additional 28 mm, i.e., 2528 mm. (In order to fit the full 2500 panels)
Should I install the ceiling already now? that's about an additional 15 mm, i.e., 2543 mm.
The floor then, should I add another 20 mm for this, 2563 mm?

No, the floor I will naturally install after the walls are completely finished, so a maximum of 2543 mm wall height is required.
But really, shouldn’t I install chipboard/OSB + drywall before I install the ceiling? So a 2528 mm wall height, or ...

or ...

I feel all confused now, help me ....!!! :x

Whatever I choose, it will work out, of course. But what is the smartest?

Additionally, the intention is to avoid ceiling moldings, in case anyone is wondering.

 

[Mikael_L]

Right now, I'm leaning towards only adding for the glesen and a few more mm in the wobble allowance.

Let's say I frame the wall at about 2530 - 2535 mm height.

 

[FredrikR]

Right now I'm leaning towards only adding for the glesen and a few mm more for wiggle room.

Let's say I frame the wall at a height of about 2530 - 2535 mm.

I'm far from a builder now, but I would have done as you write now. A few hours ago, I was standing and looking around the garage and thinking about all the boards (OSB + gypsum) that I had to cut ~30mm off from because I didn't think ahead.

But as they say, you live and learn..

 

[injonil]

No OSB or equivalent in the ceiling? An inner ceiling probably won't hold much, and if you're going to hit the joists, you can't be too picky about where the lamps end up...

Or do you decide in advance exactly where the ceiling lights should be and place the hook at the electrical box?

 

[mycke_nu]

I would probably sparse the ceiling before the wall panels go up, what else should the electricity be attached to?

 

[Mikael_L]

No OSB or equivalent in the ceiling? A ceiling probably won't hold much, and if you're going to hit the joists, you can't be too picky about where the lights end up...

Or do you decide exactly where the ceiling lights should be beforehand and place the hook by the junction box?

Hmm... I'm not really sure where to draw the line with solid construction.

But it feels like the line could be somewhere around there... Meaning OSB behind wall plaster but only ceiling tiles. The ceiling covering hasn't really been decided yet.
Tiles like Huntonit, ready-painted seem nice, (Really boring work to fill and paint the ceiling!) or maybe some wood paneling.

If you can place a light up to 13 cm off, I think it doesn't really matter.

 

[Mats]

I would aim for about 2540 in ceiling height and set the studs before you drywall the wall. One cm gap at the bottom is just fine. There is a special tool you attach to your foot to adjust the drywall, so it's good to have a little wiggle room.

 

[Mikael_L]

Yes, I'm leaning towards about 2535-2540 in wall height (concrete floor -> underside of beams).
Then I'll add the battens after that. This makes it easier to access electrical wiring up and down in the walls and ceiling.
After that, the walls will be closed and finally the inner ceiling and flooring will be done.
Then I have to be careful with the cutting and fitting of the ceiling if I want to avoid ceiling moldings.

The resulting room height will be approximately 246-248 cm depending on the choice of ceiling and flooring. That suffices.



edit:

I should probably add the battens to the ceiling before the wall panels go up, what else should the wiring be attached to?

That's a very good point ...

 

[mycke_nu]

Otherwise, you can do like the Yankees...

Put up the roof first, then the walls with horizontal panels. Start from the top, press the top panels against the ceiling to make it tight. Then place the lower panels staggered by half a panel (like a brick wall, if you know what I mean).

The advantages of this are several:

1. All the fitting work disappears; gaps at the floor are hidden by the baseboard.
2. The plastering work is eased because there are few seams going up to the ceiling.
3. No vertical seams run all the way from floor to ceiling on the studs, reducing the risk of cracks.

 

[Belaruz]

For someone who has thought that way before, could you say something about any potential drawbacks?

Otherwise, you can do like the Americans...

Put up the ceiling first, then the walls with horizontal boards. Start from the top, push the top boards up against the ceiling so it's tight. Then place the lower boards staggered half a board (like a brick wall, if you understand what I mean).

The advantages of this are several:

1. All the adjustment work disappears, gaps at the floor are hidden by the baseboard.
2. The joint compound work is facilitated by having few joints that go up to the ceiling.
3. No vertical joints run all the way from floor to ceiling on the studs, reducing the risk of cracks.

 

[Mikael_L]

Otherwise, you can do like the Yankees...

Put up the roof first, then the walls with horizontal boards. Start from the top, press the topmost boards against the roof for a tight fit. Then place the lower boards staggered by half a board (like a brick wall, if you know what I mean).

The advantages of this are several:

1. All alignment work disappears, gaps at the floor are covered by the skirting board.
2. The plastering work is facilitated because there are few joints running up to the ceiling.
3. No vertical joints run all the way from floor to ceiling on the studs, which reduces the risk of cracks.

1. true.
2. not true. Because then I will have a difficult-to-plaster joint (no bevel) every 2.4 meters instead of an easy-to-plaster one (with bevel) every 1.2 meters. And I know what I choose at least 8 days a week ...
3. partly true. Because joints usually don't crack in the middle of the walls, but in the corners.

Nope, here it won't be an American house, but a tried and tested Swedish one!
Imagine if it turned out like at Al Bundy's house!!! :O :x

 

[mycke_nu]

Ah, Mikael, you cut the unbeveled edge in 5 seconds and then you can sit on the couch and enjoy with your hand in the waistband!

 

[Mikael_L]

And the remote in the other hand ...

But the paper strip must be smoothed very broadly in both directions, so that a bulge won't be visible.