I am going to demolish a load-bearing wall in my house. The wall is located in the middle of the house and is about 5 meters long. We have a flat roof with tar paper and a slope of about 4%. Now to the question: I was thinking of using laminated wood, I plan to buy laminated wood (roof beam) that is 90x225x5500mm and a post (laminated wood) that is 90x90x2500. Is this sufficient to support my roof??
I will buy from Skånska byggvaror www.skbv.se (search for laminated wood)
Best regards/Dadde
I will buy from Skånska byggvaror www.skbv.se (search for laminated wood)
Best regards/Dadde
I probably wrote a bit strangely, I mean postsMathiasS said:
that I will have on each end, so nothing in the middle./Dadde
Ok.
I'm not a designer and can only make wild guesses based on previous discussions in the forum and what I've done on the same theme. Given this, I think you need a significantly sturdier beam than the one you sketched. I'm supporting roughly the same length and was suggested a 115x400x6000. Much beefier than the one you planned, in other words. You also have the least favorable load case, I guess, with the flat roof.
For the supports at the ends, you don't need to use glulam. A couple of joined 45x120s can handle the load and more besides. Instead, think about what to place these posts on and how the floor looks.
Those who manufacture glulam can also assist with dimensioning. Call one of them, and you can certainly get some help.
I'm not a designer and can only make wild guesses based on previous discussions in the forum and what I've done on the same theme. Given this, I think you need a significantly sturdier beam than the one you sketched. I'm supporting roughly the same length and was suggested a 115x400x6000. Much beefier than the one you planned, in other words. You also have the least favorable load case, I guess, with the flat roof.
For the supports at the ends, you don't need to use glulam. A couple of joined 45x120s can handle the load and more besides. Instead, think about what to place these posts on and how the floor looks.
Those who manufacture glulam can also assist with dimensioning. Call one of them, and you can certainly get some help.
A program for dimensioning can be downloaded here: http://www.moelventoreboda.se/
Click on Program and download according to the instructions.
Click on Program and download according to the instructions.
I just have to ask the question because I'm a bit curious.
It seems to be a trend to use glulam beams to support walls/ceilings that are removed in various configurations.
Why buy a glulam beam that due to its poor load-bearing capacity has to be extremely thick?
Why not use railway rails or similar steel and thus reduce the size?
Of course, it's heavy, but you don't throw up a glulam beam by hand that often either.
I don't understand :
It seems to be a trend to use glulam beams to support walls/ceilings that are removed in various configurations.
Why buy a glulam beam that due to its poor load-bearing capacity has to be extremely thick?
Why not use railway rails or similar steel and thus reduce the size?
Of course, it's heavy, but you don't throw up a glulam beam by hand that often either.
I don't understand :
Largely, I believe it's because it's easier to get sizing help for glued laminated timber, it's available at regular hardware stores and it can be handled and treated like a large beam during construction, i.e., regular wood tools and methods work.
I was also considering a glulam beam when I extended my 1 1/2-story house 4.80 m to avoid the center load-bearing wall, but it would have been about 495 high, so you would have had to duck on the ground floor when passing by it.
Instead, it became a steel beam HEB 200 that supports the upper floor and roof.
In fact, I contacted a designer/calculator who said that a smaller steel HEA 180 beam would suffice... but I prefer to overdesign rather than underdesign.
Instead, it became a steel beam HEB 200 that supports the upper floor and roof.
In fact, I contacted a designer/calculator who said that a smaller steel HEA 180 beam would suffice... but I prefer to overdesign rather than underdesign.
I am also considering a steel beam, but it feels much heavier and harder to transport. But I only have 2.40 meters in ceiling height, so if you're going to have a glued laminated timber beam about 40-50 cm, you almost have to duck to avoid hitting your head
Would gladly accept tips on where to find a steel beam in the Gothenburg area, as well as tips on how to transport a 5-meter-long steel beam. How much do you think it will weigh?
And perhaps the most important question, what size steel beam do you think I need?
Best regards/Dadde
Would gladly accept tips on where to find a steel beam in the Gothenburg area, as well as tips on how to transport a 5-meter-long steel beam. How much do you think it will weigh?
And perhaps the most important question, what size steel beam do you think I need?
Best regards/Dadde
On the roof of a car? 5m isn't that far...
Hehegunne said:
Not long but the maximum weight on the roof of a car is still 100kg and it might be overloaded there, right??
GET HELP FROM A DESIGNER!
It is not easy to transfer beam dimensions between different houses.
Besides the length, the dimension is affected by the distance laterally, i.e., to the left and right of the beam's direction, to the nearest support for the overlying floor/roof.
Additionally, snow load and self-weight have an impact.
It is not easy to transfer beam dimensions between different houses.
Besides the length, the dimension is affected by the distance laterally, i.e., to the left and right of the beam's direction, to the nearest support for the overlying floor/roof.
Additionally, snow load and self-weight have an impact.
We used steel beams put together 145 x 45 for a 4 m opening in our extension. (On top of it stands an outer wall. The house is half as wide on the upper floor there.)
Still haven't seen any disadvantages with it and our two carpenters somehow got it in place without complaint. It takes up about 2 dm in height including plasterboard, which is a fairly moderate box to have in the ceiling.
And, as I said, pay a structural engineer for an hour, and they will calculate how it should be done to hold. Then you won't have to wonder if you did it right or not afterwards.
/pinebar