Hello,

I would prefer to remove the highlighted, likely load-bearing beam, which is supposed to be an opening. Is it possible to do so without the red-marked beam (or whatever it's called :D), which is between the ceiling and the upper floor, taking too much damage?

Image 1 & 2 are directed towards the Entrance.
Image 3 & 4 are in the opposite direction, Kitchen.
 
Image 1
 
  • Wooden ceiling beams and plaster cornice in a renovation project, with red and yellow arrows pointing at specific areas for discussion.
Image 2
 
  • Ceiling under renovation with exposed beams and wires. A red arrow points to a damaged area and a green arrow highlights another spot.
Image 3
 
  • Ceiling renovation with exposed wooden beams and insulation. Red and yellow arrows point to specific areas. Indoor hallway view with a ceiling light fixture.
Image 4
 
  • Exposed ceiling with visible wooden beams and wiring, highlighting renovation work in progress. Red and yellow arrows indicate specific areas.
What's your wingspan?
 
is there any beam behind the plasterboard then???
have you checked that, I mean it might just be framed and plasterboarded.
It should probably be the red one that bears, but of course, it depends on how long the span is.
 
kalleboston said:
How long is your span?
Hmm. I'm a bit unsure about what is meant by span.

Where the beam starts (in the hall) it is 3.5 m to the "yellow arrow."
From the yellow arrow to the kitchen opening is about 2.4 m.
From the kitchen opening, it is 3.5 m to the end.


3.5 2.5 3.5
|------|---|------|


Total length is thus 9.5 m.

The beam dimension is 21x4.3 cm.
 
banana said:
is there a beam behind the drywall then???
have you checked that, I mean it might just be framed and drywalled.
It should probably be the red one that's load-bearing, but of course, it depends on how long the span is, as mentioned.
I haven't investigated further than drilling a hole about 15 cm from the top down.. and there was wood there. I would rather not tear it down if it turns out that it can't be removed.. :-/
 
you can remove some plaster, it's easy to replace!
But if you tap a bit on the plaster, is it a solid sound everywhere? or does it sound a bit hollow, the difference is noticeable
 
I'm no expert, but could it be that the archway into the VR room is the load-bearing one (or perhaps both)? It seems more rustic.
 
Span is what you think 8-)
 
But wait a minute..

If you take a look at image 2, you'll see that the beam has two thin masonite boards that are clamped against the opening I want to remove.

Can't you try to pry away one of the pieces to see if the beam falls down a bit? Or is that perhaps a bad idea? I don't want to damage more than necessary. ::)
 
Now, I'm not a structural engineer, but with that span, I believe one of the interior walls is load-bearing. Memory tells me that 5-6 meters is the maximum span for regular 195*45 solid wood.
 
If you have a span of 9.5m, at least one of the two walls is load-bearing. It's impossible to determine which one without drawings or more data.

IF the "yellow" one is load-bearing, there is a beam behind the plasterboard over the opening, and in that case, you can't open it more than to expose the beam.
IF it is not load-bearing, there is no beam behind the plasterboard, and then you can just tear up to the joist.

The easiest way to check is probably to tear the plasterboard, but if you want to save the wallpaper, you might try this:
Since the ceiling seems to be torn, you should be able to feel from above if there's a stud there. If there is and you can access it, drill a small hole (5mm) from above, and if you come out after 45mm, it's just a regular stud, but if you still haven't gotten through after 100mm, it's a load-bearing beam! :)

/The Engineer
 
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