Hello,
How do you attach renovation drywall to concrete? I know you can glue it with PL 400, as I've already started this on a smaller section. However, I will soon reach a point where the drywall is partly attached with screws to chipboard on the entry level, and since there are a couple of mm level differences between the basement and entry level, PL 400 likely won't hold the drywall in place before it has dried for a day or so.
Is there some type of concrete nail that doesn't require pre-drilling? Or maybe I have to drill a couple of holes, put in plugs, and screw the drywall in place?
How do you attach renovation drywall to concrete? I know you can glue it with PL 400, as I've already started this on a smaller section. However, I will soon reach a point where the drywall is partly attached with screws to chipboard on the entry level, and since there are a couple of mm level differences between the basement and entry level, PL 400 likely won't hold the drywall in place before it has dried for a day or so.
Is there some type of concrete nail that doesn't require pre-drilling? Or maybe I have to drill a couple of holes, put in plugs, and screw the drywall in place?
There is something called boardlim, I used it on my plasterboards. It is sold in bags which are then mixed with water.
Tile adhesive, rendering mortar should work as well if it is very uneven. Did so about 15 years ago and it's still holding. However, not sure why PL400 shouldn't work? Glue, pull apart. Wait a moment and press again. Never had a problem with it coming loose then.
Honestly, I have no idea but when I asked in the hardware store they recommended it, although it's really expensive per sheet I rememberS snowjim said:
I usually use gypsum plaster and then a 6 mm plaster comb. It sticks immediately and holds like a rock!
If the wall is uneven, even it out first with gypsum plaster, otherwise the drywall will become bumpy on the wall. Wet the concrete with some water from a spray bottle before applying the plaster (or drywall).
If the wall is uneven, even it out first with gypsum plaster, otherwise the drywall will become bumpy on the wall. Wet the concrete with some water from a spray bottle before applying the plaster (or drywall).
Yes, it seems like many people are using plaster putty. If I can, I would gladly avoid messing with cement altogether, but sometimes it is a must.
As mentioned, we chose PL 400 and it turned out to work well. It does take 1-2 days to dry, but it's enough to press it against the wall for a few minutes for it to stick there. We had to press a bit longer because we have a level difference.
The boards were left to dry for 2 hours before we put the screws in the upper part of the plasterboards. However, it wasn't possible to drive in screw by screw, so one had to hold the board in place while another drove a lot of screws, and when released, it held fine. We'll see how it holds in the long run.
Here are some pictures: http://imgur.com/a/KVAXy
In picture 1 and 2, you can see that the screws are not set and that they stand out quite a bit from the wall.
Picture 2 shows the first row of screws in the middle section itself, where it wasn't as tight, so fewer screws were needed there. This is where wood meets concrete.
Picture 3 shows how the arch looks up to the entrance level where the level difference was the largest.
When pressing around on the plaster, it's practically impossible to press it in even if it doesn’t follow the back piece 100%. This of course means it’s likely a bit more fragile here too, but with some tests, one can conclude that renovation plaster is very durable! I would say it holds better than regular double plaster, in fact.
Some pieces had to be sawed and in hindsight, I realized that they contain fiberglass, so we really should have had masks, which we unfortunately missed this time
Let's hope this holds now! Tomorrow it will be time to apply filler and tape. The paint store said that only paper strips should be used here, nothing else.
As mentioned, we chose PL 400 and it turned out to work well. It does take 1-2 days to dry, but it's enough to press it against the wall for a few minutes for it to stick there. We had to press a bit longer because we have a level difference.
The boards were left to dry for 2 hours before we put the screws in the upper part of the plasterboards. However, it wasn't possible to drive in screw by screw, so one had to hold the board in place while another drove a lot of screws, and when released, it held fine. We'll see how it holds in the long run.
Here are some pictures: http://imgur.com/a/KVAXy
In picture 1 and 2, you can see that the screws are not set and that they stand out quite a bit from the wall.
Picture 2 shows the first row of screws in the middle section itself, where it wasn't as tight, so fewer screws were needed there. This is where wood meets concrete.
Picture 3 shows how the arch looks up to the entrance level where the level difference was the largest.
When pressing around on the plaster, it's practically impossible to press it in even if it doesn’t follow the back piece 100%. This of course means it’s likely a bit more fragile here too, but with some tests, one can conclude that renovation plaster is very durable! I would say it holds better than regular double plaster, in fact.
Some pieces had to be sawed and in hindsight, I realized that they contain fiberglass, so we really should have had masks, which we unfortunately missed this time
Let's hope this holds now! Tomorrow it will be time to apply filler and tape. The paint store said that only paper strips should be used here, nothing else.