I am working on an extension and considering how to attach paneling to the inside of the exterior walls. It will probably be fine-sawn exterior panel board 17x120.

The walls consist of vertical 45x220 studs, plastic, horizontal 45x45. We also need OSB boards to stabilize the walls since there are no boards on the outside. (requirement from the constructor who calculated the house)
Interior construction with a framed wall showing insulation and plastic sheeting in a room. Wooden studs and beams visible, with a window and vacuum in the corner.
If we just go ahead and attach OSB and then horizontal paneling, you won't be able to attach the paneling to the underlying studs. It doesn't feel very stable for the paneling to just hang on the OSB. So my question is if this will be good? Or do I need to install noggins between the horizontal 45x45 to then attach the paneling to them?

Does it work to fasten the paneling with a nail gun? Again, it feels better/more stable to screw into the OSB. But the screws will be much more visible.
 
What type of panel is it? You can attach it with panel clips or do as I did, screw at an angle downwards into the groove of the panel. Then no screw heads are visible.

Then there's no problem with just attaching to OSB. Our new-old kitchen was only hanging on the OSB boards.
 
The last time I installed paneling, I used a nail gun through the back part of the tongue. It will probably be difficult to remove without causing damage, but you can't see any nail heads. There are also so-called panel clips, but I felt it was unnecessary...
 
S
Shorten or set thicker plywood or chipboard.
 
B Blundgren said:
When I last installed paneling, I used a nail gun through the back part of the groove. It will probably be difficult to remove without damaging everything, but you don't see any nail heads. There are also so-called panel clips, but I thought it seemed unnecessary..
There's no groove on the panel we were thinking of using.
 
S sinuslinus said:
Kortla eller sätta tjockare plywood- eller spånskivor.
Hmm, I haven't thought about thicker boards. Maybe I should try it on one wall and see how it feels with 11mm OSB and something sturdier.
 
villeg villeg said:
There is no groove on the panel we intended to use.
I should have read up on that.. Do you want to be able to take it down easily or is it more important for the setup to be 'invisible'?
If you nail crosswise, i.e., one slanted upwards and one slanted downwards, it should hold, right?
 
B Blundgren said:
I should have read up on that.. Do you want the option to easily take it down, or is it more important that the setup is 'invisible'?
If you nail crosswise, that is, one angled upwards and one angled downwards, it should hold, right?
Hidden fastening is more important.
 
Glue them up?
 
JLyck JLyck said:
Glue them up?
Difficult if they are a bit crooked. But maybe glue and brad nailer...
 
Some feedback on how we did it.
We used 15 mm tongue and groove inner paneling instead of what I previously wrote. Kept the 11 mm OSB and didn't add any extra battening. The paneling was nailed with a finish nailer into the groove. It turned out stable enough, it gives a little if you tackle the wall. We can live with that :)
Wooden paneling installation on a wall with partly visible OSB board, window with plants, and tools on the floor. Room with light wooden paneling, showing completed interior walls installed with a nail gun. Large windows with a view of trees. Renovation project update. Renovation project with 15 mm white inner paneling on walls, black window frame, and plastic-covered windows, showcasing a partially completed room. Room with newly installed 15 mm inner paneling and 11 mm OSB visible, lit by construction light. Walls and floor partially completed.
 
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