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Attach outdoor stairs - when the edge...
I'm a beginner at building. I plan to build a new staircase from the porch. Three purchased stringers, 5 steps with normal riser height, center-to-center about 44.
The porch is made of old concrete. There is a patch on the outermost part where I thought the stringers would be attached. I've been a bit concerned about how wise it is to drill there since it's close to the edge. I've now read that an 8 mm drill should be at least 8 cm from the edge. This doesn't work at all; it's more like 3.5. The crack that can be seen, I believe, is just the plaster, but I'm not sure. I drilled with a hammer drill.
Have I misunderstood or is it just time to rethink? What can be done? Attach vertical studs further down in the wall to which the staircase will be attached?
The porch is made of old concrete. There is a patch on the outermost part where I thought the stringers would be attached. I've been a bit concerned about how wise it is to drill there since it's close to the edge. I've now read that an 8 mm drill should be at least 8 cm from the edge. This doesn't work at all; it's more like 3.5. The crack that can be seen, I believe, is just the plaster, but I'm not sure. I drilled with a hammer drill.
Have I misunderstood or is it just time to rethink? What can be done? Attach vertical studs further down in the wall to which the staircase will be attached?
I'm considering buying pressure-treated 45x145, cutting into about 70 cm pieces and attaching further down on the wall with paper behind, French screw or expander or possibly façade plug. Then attach the staircase to this. It's just a matter of if it holds, I don’t know this stuff so well...S Sigward said:Am new to building this.
Going to build a new staircase from the porch. Three purchased stringers, 5 steps with normal step height, cc approximately 44.
The porch is made of old concrete. There is a repair right at the edge where I thought the stringers would sit. I've been a bit unsure about how sensible it is to drill there since it is close to the edge. I have now read that an 8 mm drill should be at least 8 cm from the edge. This doesn't work at all. This is more like 3.5. The crack that can be seen, I think is just the plaster, but I'm not sure. I drilled with a hammer drill.
Have I misunderstood or is it just that I need to rethink? What can be done? Attach vertical studs further down in the wall that the stairs are then attached to?
Insert expanders approximately 10 cm long that fit the holes, then tighten them until they're adequately secure, but not overly so, as overtightening could cause the concrete to crack upwards. These bolts should only bear 80% of the load straight down and 20% outward.
Ok, do you think it might work with the drill holes that are about 35 mm from the top edge then, or do you mean in the 45x145 rule?J jonaserik said:
In the picture, you have an angle bracket that sits on the side rail and has 2 holes in it against the concrete. Insert 2 expanders in the holes and tighten until you feel they are secure, but not too tight. One expander holds well in one hole. There are 3 side rails, there won't be much pressure on the bolts, and it's likely sufficient to use 6 mm expanders. Now, since it seems you have drilled, use 8 mm or 10 mm so you are rock solid.
I don't think it will work with the existing holes, but others might know better. I wouldn't take the chance anyway.
I would use a stronger dimension, like 45x220. Then you can place the bolts 10-12 cm down. Screw the side beams from the back into the longitudinal beam (45x220). Use long screws for outdoor use. Then drill 4 holes with a wood drill. After that, raise the construction and drill with a concrete drill for the bolts. You can put cardboard behind it. It doesn't hurt.
I would use a stronger dimension, like 45x220. Then you can place the bolts 10-12 cm down. Screw the side beams from the back into the longitudinal beam (45x220). Use long screws for outdoor use. Then drill 4 holes with a wood drill. After that, raise the construction and drill with a concrete drill for the bolts. You can put cardboard behind it. It doesn't hurt.
Yes, two holes per carriage beam. The problem is that they feel close to each other and close to the edge. I have four brackets and thought about using 6 expanders in total. I've already repaired this old concrete once and I don't think it's done entirely by the book. I'm probably not daring to go higher than the 8mm that I've drilled with now.J jonaserik said:In the picture, you have an angle bracket that sits on the carriage beam and has 2 holes in it against the concrete. Place 2 expanders in the holes and tighten until you feel they are secure, but not too tight, one expander holds well in a hole. There are 3 carriage beams, so there won't be a lot of pressure on the bolts, and I can probably say that 6 mm expanders are sufficient, now it seems like you've drilled, so take 8 mm or 10 mm to be absolutely sure
Sounds stable. Might be the solution. Can't hurt with existing angles in 45x220? Mostly aesthetic perhaps.D Derbyboy said:I don't think it will work with the existing holes, but others might know better. I wouldn't have taken the chance.
I would take a stronger dimension, like 45x220. Then you can place the bolts 10-12 cm down. Screw the stringers from behind into the longitudinal piece (45x220). Use long screws for outdoor use. Then drill four holes with a wood drill. Then raise the construction and drill with a concrete drill for the bolts. You can use paper behind. It doesn't hurt.
Now I'm not an expert but have built a similar one once and made the same possible mistake that I believe you are making. Shouldn't you start with the top step of the stairs one step below the level of the deck? As it is now, one could end up with a step where someone might easily step off by mistake and it might possibly look odd. Maybe there are different ways or schools for this? If you cut off the top angle, the problem disappears as well.
Yes, but maybe, I've thought it's more common this way but maybe I'm wrong about that. Very inexperienced as I said, I considered that option but thought it would look a bit strange.J Jocke Best said:Now I'm not an expert, but I built a similar one once and made the same possible mistake that I think you are making. Shouldn't you start with the top step of the stairs one step below the patio level? Now you'll end up with a step where someone can easily step off by mistake, and it may look odd. Maybe it's different methods or schools of thought? If you cut off the top angle, the problem would disappear as well.
Eh, what the heck Sigward, I don't think you seem that inexperienced. At least you've bought building angles and three stringers and you're planning to use a level.
You can probably do it both ways.
If you lower the stringers one notch, you'll have concrete as the background behind the first step.
As you have it now, you'll have a small "platform" at the top level with the decking.
Close your eyes and think about what will look best.....
You can probably do it both ways.
If you lower the stringers one notch, you'll have concrete as the background behind the first step.
As you have it now, you'll have a small "platform" at the top level with the decking.
Close your eyes and think about what will look best.....



