Hello,
I am planning to spruce up a partition wall at home. Our plan is to attach 4 mm plywood on top of the partially torn old wallpaper, underneath which are chipboards. The plywood will then be waxed in a grey color, and maybe matt lacquered if the surface becomes too rough...
Now the question is; what's the simplest way to attach them? I first thought about nailing, but that leaves marks no matter what you do. Screws stand out too much. Gluing seems to be the remaining option, but with what? Using something like Ardex S 48 feels a bit overkill for these boards. Is it enough with some other type of adhesive that can be applied in strips?
I am planning to spruce up a partition wall at home. Our plan is to attach 4 mm plywood on top of the partially torn old wallpaper, underneath which are chipboards. The plywood will then be waxed in a grey color, and maybe matt lacquered if the surface becomes too rough...
Now the question is; what's the simplest way to attach them? I first thought about nailing, but that leaves marks no matter what you do. Screws stand out too much. Gluing seems to be the remaining option, but with what? Using something like Ardex S 48 feels a bit overkill for these boards. Is it enough with some other type of adhesive that can be applied in strips?
PL600 is an adhesive that is water-soluble, making it easy to wipe off if you spill. PL400 also works, but is stickier when spilled (turns white when it dries).
Wood glue; doesn't that require pressing the board against the wall for quite a long time?
How long must the board be clamped with PL600 or Casco's equivalent?
How long must the board be clamped with PL600 or Casco's equivalent?
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· Västerbottens län
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Wood glue needs press pressure while drying. Contact adhesive is more sticky and adheres immediately. However, it also needs to dry for full strength.
Then I am very hesitant to glue 4mm plywood, it tends to be warped and crooked, and gluing it so it adheres over the entire surface, no.
The alternative is to remove the chipboard and place 12mm plywood directly on the studs; it might be straight enough to glue.
I'm a bit allergic to the pattern on plywood; it's rotary-peeled veneer, which is why it's so large-grained. There is plywood with quarter-sawn veneer that more resembles solid wood.
Protte
Then I am very hesitant to glue 4mm plywood, it tends to be warped and crooked, and gluing it so it adheres over the entire surface, no.
The alternative is to remove the chipboard and place 12mm plywood directly on the studs; it might be straight enough to glue.
I'm a bit allergic to the pattern on plywood; it's rotary-peeled veneer, which is why it's so large-grained. There is plywood with quarter-sawn veneer that more resembles solid wood.
Protte
PL600 basically grabs a little faster than PL400, if I remember correctly.
The boards have been up for a long time. They turned out so-so, not straight at all as was pointed out. They bulge out from the surface here and there, attached them with nails and glue. But from a bit of a distance, it looks good. Now they just need to be white-waxed, new floor, moldings, ceiling painted...
Now I'm wondering if anyone has an idea about how to do around corners? I have two small walls that end with a short side. Normally you would attach a finishing trim. How do you make such a thing look good without moldings? Do you let the board be a bit wider than the wall and then fill the gap between the board and the adjoining boards with some kind of sealant?
Now I'm wondering if anyone has an idea about how to do around corners? I have two small walls that end with a short side. Normally you would attach a finishing trim. How do you make such a thing look good without moldings? Do you let the board be a bit wider than the wall and then fill the gap between the board and the adjoining boards with some kind of sealant?