Planning to install junction boxes in a new interior wall.
The interior wall is being built on an existing plastered brick wall.
The interior wall will consist of plasterboard on 45mm studs.
What's the best way to attach the junction boxes? The boxes I've looked at are only prepared for nailing backward. The nightmare would be if the boxes come loose from their mounts.
If you buy a hole in one to avoid taking down the plasterboard again and sawing out box holes, won’t the boxes end up behind the plasterboard instead of being in the plasterboard?
Thanks in advance!
The interior wall is being built on an existing plastered brick wall.
The interior wall will consist of plasterboard on 45mm studs.
What's the best way to attach the junction boxes? The boxes I've looked at are only prepared for nailing backward. The nightmare would be if the boxes come loose from their mounts.
If you buy a hole in one to avoid taking down the plasterboard again and sawing out box holes, won’t the boxes end up behind the plasterboard instead of being in the plasterboard?
Thanks in advance!
I don't know what kind of boxes you've got, but all the ones I've encountered can be nailed to the side as well. Anyway, the boxes are chosen primarily based on whether you're using single or double gypsum, and they're placed on the stud with a distance of 13 or 26 mm (a small tab in the box shows where the boundary is). A magnet is placed in the box before gypsuming, and once the gypsum is in place, you use the corresponding magnet and hole saw to cut a hole, and the gypsum "falls over" the edge of the box, aligning the box's edge with the gypsum board.
If you're going to install 45-degree studs, then the box should "rest" against the old wall, thus wedging between the gypsum and the old wall, and you can glue the box at the bottom, and then they'll stay where they're supposed to.
I don't know if I was clear, but feel free to ask more if you didn't follow.
If you're going to install 45-degree studs, then the box should "rest" against the old wall, thus wedging between the gypsum and the old wall, and you can glue the box at the bottom, and then they'll stay where they're supposed to.
I don't know if I was clear, but feel free to ask more if you didn't follow.
Thank you very much!
Yep, I'm using green ones for single plasterboard, and they have small "edges" which I assumed would rest against the plasterboard, but what I had missed was that they should "protrude" so the plasterboard can bulge until the hole is made. I haven't worked with plasterboard before, so I thought such a maneuver would cause the board to crack.
Yep, I'm using green ones for single plasterboard, and they have small "edges" which I assumed would rest against the plasterboard, but what I had missed was that they should "protrude" so the plasterboard can bulge until the hole is made. I haven't worked with plasterboard before, so I thought such a maneuver would cause the board to crack.
There are also other dosor, though a bit more expensive, but where you can adjust the ring itself in and out depending on the thickness of the board/material in front. You screw or nail them from the side into a stud, or you can use glue, there are probably some threads about it on the forum.
mats_o said:
There is no universal color coding for device boxes, so check whether they are intended for single or double plaster instead of checking the color of the box.Glufsglufs said:
Otherwise, I have nothing useful to add to the thread ... :blushing:
You shouldn't screw in the screws that are near the box.Mangan said:Many thanks!
Yep, I'm using green ones for single gypsum and they have small "edges" which I assumed would rest against the gypsum, but what I had missed was that they were supposed to "stick out" so the gypsum board bulges until the hole is made. I haven't worked with gypsum before, so I thought such a maneuver would cause the board to crack.
Get the gypsum board in the right place and screw in about 10-15 screws in strategic places so it hangs securely in the right spot. Then make the hole and screw the rest.
Hole in one socket search system:
http://www.jula.se/eldosesokare-hole-in-one-125180
Biltema has had a cheaper copy, which I can't find now ..?
But it's just as good as far as I understand. I have it but haven't used it yet.
http://www.elonline.se/ensto-appara...nBack=0&iAm_Id=3374&sTabMenuList=ArtLastAdded
it was one like this I meant, however, there's no picture on that link, although there are other brands. then you can set the box further in and then adjust the ring outwards
it was one like this I meant, however, there's no picture on that link, although there are other brands. then you can set the box further in and then adjust the ring outwards
For electricians, there is more or less universal color coding either on the boxes or the ring on the boxesMikael_L said:
Well, when mounting sheet material you should use boxes with "tabs" that rest against the sheet, when you then attach the device the device tightens from one direction and the box from the other. Boxes with rings that can be adjusted are more designed for refurbishment tasks in brick, concrete, plaster walls where you might tile at the final stage and don't know exactly where the edge will be.....at least that's how I work.hugodog said:
The ones our electricians installed were like that, I even vaguely remember there's a small tab on them, they are installed both where there's double gypsum with tiles and single gypsum. Anyway, it turned out wellGlufsglufs said:Well, when installing panels, you should use boxes with "tabs" that rest against the panel. When you then attach the device, it tightens from one side while the box tightens from the other. Boxes with adjustable rings are more intended for renovation jobs in brick, concrete, plaster walls where you might tile at the end and aren't sure exactly where the edge will be... that's how I work at least.
Yes, there's nothing wrong in the sense that you can't or have to use one or the other and you are right, there's probably a "ridge" on most brands of them as well that can rest against the board, I haven't thought about it so carefully since I never use them in board material.hugodog said:
Preferably, you don't screw at all, insert the magnets, set up the board, and make the hole, then screw it. If there's a mistake, it's relatively easy to adjust the hole with a knife or rasp. A screw can help sometimes if you're working alone. But if there's a cable pulled in the boxes, you need to be careful, sometimes you have to mark the hole, pull out the board, and finish drilling.Mangan said: