Hello
A question that has come up a lot, but I would like some advice in my particular case.
I am building a large garage with a frame in standing 195x45. It will have horizontal 22x145 cladding. My question is what you recommend for an air gap and wind barrier paper. Or is there a better way to do it?
It will be painted with slamfärg.
Thanks in advance
/Teodor
A question that has come up a lot, but I would like some advice in my particular case.
I am building a large garage with a frame in standing 195x45. It will have horizontal 22x145 cladding. My question is what you recommend for an air gap and wind barrier paper. Or is there a better way to do it?
It will be painted with slamfärg.
Thanks in advance
/Teodor
A standard sparse panel 28x70 will be fine.
I have 25x50 battens (which are much cheaper than 28x70 battens) and distemper paint.
I don't feel worried about this choice since even the distemper itself is highly diffusion-open, almost like untreated cladding.
But if I chose to paint with acrylic, I think I would choose 28x70 to guarantee a little more air gap, since this facade mainly dries towards the back.
There is yet another reason to choose 28x70 or something else stronger than 25x50, which is if the battens are placed without underlying support from studs, then you want something more stable and stronger to nail into. Both to get more mm of material for the nail to "grab into," and overall stability and strength.
That is, with vertical studs behind vertical battens (horizontal cladding later on) there will be proper support behind the battens.
And the same with a cross-braced frame, e.g. horizontal 45x45 with insulation, then horizontal battens for vertical cladding, also becomes stable.
If it is something other than these two cases, it's probably better with at least 28x70 battens.
I don't feel worried about this choice since even the distemper itself is highly diffusion-open, almost like untreated cladding.
But if I chose to paint with acrylic, I think I would choose 28x70 to guarantee a little more air gap, since this facade mainly dries towards the back.
There is yet another reason to choose 28x70 or something else stronger than 25x50, which is if the battens are placed without underlying support from studs, then you want something more stable and stronger to nail into. Both to get more mm of material for the nail to "grab into," and overall stability and strength.
That is, with vertical studs behind vertical battens (horizontal cladding later on) there will be proper support behind the battens.
And the same with a cross-braced frame, e.g. horizontal 45x45 with insulation, then horizontal battens for vertical cladding, also becomes stable.
If it is something other than these two cases, it's probably better with at least 28x70 battens.
To avoid starting a new thread unnecessarily, I'll ask another question to those more knowledgeable here... apologies if technical terms are not used correctly all the time 
1. Still in the construction stage and wondering if it's worth embedding a horizontal 195x45 on top of the standing studs, beneath the "top plate".
Or should I skip the green-drawn stud? The wall is supposed to support 11-meter-long rafters that are approximately 110cm apart and a tiled roof, so it will be a lot of weight...
2. Initially, I planned to place the standing studs on 190x190x590mm lecablock. I'm not really sure why. But today I spoke to a former mason and he said, "No, just place the studs directly on the concrete slab with sill flash under, skip the lecablocks entirely..." what do you say about that?
Thanks in advance!
1. Still in the construction stage and wondering if it's worth embedding a horizontal 195x45 on top of the standing studs, beneath the "top plate".
Or should I skip the green-drawn stud? The wall is supposed to support 11-meter-long rafters that are approximately 110cm apart and a tiled roof, so it will be a lot of weight...
2. Initially, I planned to place the standing studs on 190x190x590mm lecablock. I'm not really sure why. But today I spoke to a former mason and he said, "No, just place the studs directly on the concrete slab with sill flash under, skip the lecablocks entirely..." what do you say about that?
Thanks in advance!
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Or just bärlina, no hammarband.
In posts 62 - 74 approximately, you have discussions about this, which I did in my garage.
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/smahus...212-snik-garaget-3.html?perpage=30#post706667
In posts 62 - 74 approximately, you have discussions about this, which I did in my garage.
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/smahus...212-snik-garaget-3.html?perpage=30#post706667
Thanks
Yes, no wall plate in your case seemed to work well! But don't you think that construction might become unstable or wobbly with my 195s then? Wood twists and turns, after all. Double recessed is another solution (as I was thinking of having over my two garage doors).
It seems using Leca isn't a good idea if I interpret your words correctly or have I missed something about it? What's really the point of that building method when you might as well place the wood directly on the concrete?
Yes, no wall plate in your case seemed to work well! But don't you think that construction might become unstable or wobbly with my 195s then? Wood twists and turns, after all. Double recessed is another solution (as I was thinking of having over my two garage doors).
It seems using Leca isn't a good idea if I interpret your words correctly
or have I missed something about it? What's really the point of that building method when you might as well place the wood directly on the concrete?
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A LECA base has two fantastic advantages.
1. Inside, it raises the moisture-sensitive wall from the floor. There's less risk that a bit of meltwater from a snowy car will ruin the walls.
If the garage is used exclusively as storage for things you don't use, like the majority of Swedish homeowners, this doesn't matter.
2. Outside, it creates enough distance between the ground and the wood paneling so that the paneling doesn't rot in a few years.
Otherwise, there are only disadvantages. More expensive, more work, and much worse thermal insulation for the bottom two decimeters.
Some tricks can be done to improve the insulation-
1. Inside, it raises the moisture-sensitive wall from the floor. There's less risk that a bit of meltwater from a snowy car will ruin the walls.
If the garage is used exclusively as storage for things you don't use, like the majority of Swedish homeowners, this doesn't matter.
2. Outside, it creates enough distance between the ground and the wood paneling so that the paneling doesn't rot in a few years.
Otherwise, there are only disadvantages. More expensive, more work, and much worse thermal insulation for the bottom two decimeters.
Some tricks can be done to improve the insulation-
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· Västerbottens län
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If you have a snowy car in the garage, the sill cannot be placed directly on the concrete. Sill paper is not enough.
I've learned the hard way, so I'm going to prop up my garage with polyethylene boards to handle a few cm of water.
Standing hammer beam is a must with that roof.
Protte
I've learned the hard way, so I'm going to prop up my garage with polyethylene boards to handle a few cm of water.
Standing hammer beam is a must with that roof.
Protte
I have seen many who put a sheet metal strip and then carefully silicone it down to the concrete, maybe not the most serious approach but it should work. Where do you buy that plastic/sheets? A couple of centimeters should be enough for the moisture...
Can't you cast or render an edge at the bottom?
Just thinking out loud...
Edit, then it will be standing top plates!
Can't you cast or render an edge at the bottom?
Just thinking out loud...
Edit, then it will be standing top plates!
It is the typical emergency solution that is done when it's too late to realize that the walls are about to go to h-ell...TheoT said:
And then the problem with the lawn growing against the panel still remains, causing it to rot.