but then it is aerated concrete.
everyone didn't glue the aerated concrete blocks before.
now we set them with a type of mortar instead.
everyone didn't glue the aerated concrete blocks before.
now we set them with a type of mortar instead.
are there small dents all over the basement? similar to your bottom picture? then it could be that a lot of moisture is trapped in the wall. do you know what type of paint was used?
No, there are almost no "bubbles." Only one room where there is a little because of poor drainage of rainwater. But that is addressed, and the paint is not a model that breathes...
where there are bubbles, I should knock it away and let it air out & measure moisture.
where there are bubbles, I should knock it away and let it air out & measure moisture.
yes, please remove as much paint as possible and make sure it's dry everywhere, I would start with mortar where there are many stones missing. use some good screws as reinforcement (some that don't rust)
How did the former owner address the leakage?
Installed a Platon membrane or other moisture protection on the outside?
Or do you have a tarred exterior? If so, it's probably time to improve the exterior before addressing the interior.
Installed a Platon membrane or other moisture protection on the outside?
Or do you have a tarred exterior? If so, it's probably time to improve the exterior before addressing the interior.
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 243 posts
As already mentioned in #3, it is aerated concrete blocks and thin joint mortar works well for the joint. Regular mortar and plaster risk not adhering particularly well to aerated concrete. I guess it's thin joint mortar in the joints that has become a bit thicker than normal (around 2-6 mm) in the picture.
Brush with water and prime/slurry with a priming mortar (e.g., Finja's low-alkali priming mortar A) first before plastering for better adhesion.
Aerated concrete blocks are actually better in terms of moisture for basement walls because the blocks are thicker and more insulating than concrete/hollow concrete blocks, allowing the dew point to be further out in the wall structure. But since LB absorbs water like a sponge, this assumes that the external protection is intact. Otherwise, there is a risk that the plaster on the inside will fall off again in the future.
Brush with water and prime/slurry with a priming mortar (e.g., Finja's low-alkali priming mortar A) first before plastering for better adhesion.
Aerated concrete blocks are actually better in terms of moisture for basement walls because the blocks are thicker and more insulating than concrete/hollow concrete blocks, allowing the dew point to be further out in the wall structure. But since LB absorbs water like a sponge, this assumes that the external protection is intact. Otherwise, there is a risk that the plaster on the inside will fall off again in the future.