Regardless of whether a car with a chute or a pump comes, the beams are too high. Everything should go smoothly, nothing in the way that doesn't have to be in the way.
The last time I built a form that was 200mm wide, it was on hilly rock, the highest part of the form was 7 meters in finished height for the concrete. A "wall" on which we later built a house with 4 apartments.
But of course, you do as you wish, if you want threaded rods, etc., go for it, but it's not necessary.
Thank you for all the tips. I have ordered a pump truck, not a chute. But I can still shorten the supports anyway
As it looks now, there are 240mm wood screws through the form at the bottom (5cm up) going 3cm into the board/stud, C-C 50cm. The bottom reinforcement rests on this. I put M8 through the supports on each side of the form as low as I can (couldn't get down to 5cm though) and 5cm from the top, about C-C 100cm.
On the inside, it's very difficult to put supports, as the excavation masses are there :/ On the low part (max 45cm high) do I need to use a lot of support on the inside if I use plenty of form ties?
//Love
yes. you also avoid support on the inside if you use form ties
PS. Anyone who knows someone with a digger, model smooth, who wants to work a little next week in the Luleå area? My favorite guy apparently needed a vacation (well-deserved one) and can’t help us for 2 weeks, which is almost a disaster for the project...
He he, the weather gods have been watering over Luleå since the frost released, basically. But just today, and if you are to believe the soothsayers, which I have stopped doing for a long time, it will be sunny going forward so I will probably have to water as mentioned. Weird. When the form was built, it rained constantly for weeks, now when the concrete needs to cure slowly, the sun comes out properly....
It's a mini-vibe she's holding, she seemed very interested in it. It was effective at least, until it burned (smoke came out of it in the wrong place), a rented Makita, I hope I'm not charged for new brushes/winding/motor...
Yep, the hose is for lighting, remains to be seen what it will end up being.
The guys were effective, I think they finished in 19 min according to the note I signed. BUT the pump truck recorded 3h which is understandable since he has some hoses to clean (1 cubic meter in waste) but anyway... it wasn't really budgeted for, but it was definitely worth it with a pump truck. Chutes would have been complicated.
Without all your tips and pointers, I probably wouldn't have managed this mentally, but now I felt quite secure when the pump started.
One last question, when can I remove the mold?
Best regards, Love
Remove the mold? What do you mean? All the tips we have given you in this thread are based on the mold having protection of formply! If you had built a wall without protection, you would have needed to build the wall with a 7-degree inward tilt.
No, I'm just kidding I would wait a few days, but there are people here who have better knowledge of such things.
The mold can actually be removed after a couple of hours; the concrete won't run away if the mix is right. But one can wait a day; if you wait too long, the mold might become difficult to remove.
I always remove the mold within 1 day after casting, but you have to be careful at the edges so as not to break anything.
You also want to be able to water properly, not just on the top.
Okay, then make sure to choose an electric cable that can be directly laid in the ground without a protective conduit, as that tube is likely not approved for underground installation, where yellow protective tubing is used. It’s best if you lay yellow protective tubing anyway, so there’s a chance to replace the cable in the future without digging it up.
The white one is just through the wall. On the outside of the wall (in the ground) I of course used yellow protective conduit It's good that you keep an eye on me though.
Today I thought I'd try a careful demolition. Pictures to come.
Takes longer than you think to tear down when you've fertilized with screws :/
I'll take the rest tomorrow. The surface looks really good btw. Very satisfied!
Anyone know when and how to attach slate to the wall? Glue or fix, and how long does the concrete have to dry before that do you think?
When casting floors, it is said to wait anywhere from 1 month to 3 months before laying tiles, so somewhere in that range should also apply to a concrete wall. The simplest method is to use adhesive.
