Hello!
I'm getting started on adding insulation to my stone house and then installing a wooden facade (unless Jesus comes down and gives me a good price on a stucco facade).
Before you completely dismiss me, a stucco facade costs about 260,000 SEK (175 sqm) after the ROT deduction right now, the masons simply have too much work and can therefore price dream considerably. A corresponding wooden facade with insulation costs about 80,000 SEK.
I've looked a bit into insulation, polystyrene seems to be much cheaper than, for example, stone wool. Pros and cons?
If I choose polystyrene, can I attach the battens directly on top of the polystyrene with lightweight concrete screws straight through, or does it require sleeves and such that stone wool requires?
Regardless of the insulation type, how do you handle the eaves, do you line up the insulation against it or should you leave a ventilation gap, I'm thinking about condensation on the underside of the roof.
Best regards, Kim
I'm getting started on adding insulation to my stone house and then installing a wooden facade (unless Jesus comes down and gives me a good price on a stucco facade).
Before you completely dismiss me, a stucco facade costs about 260,000 SEK (175 sqm) after the ROT deduction right now, the masons simply have too much work and can therefore price dream considerably. A corresponding wooden facade with insulation costs about 80,000 SEK.
I've looked a bit into insulation, polystyrene seems to be much cheaper than, for example, stone wool. Pros and cons?
If I choose polystyrene, can I attach the battens directly on top of the polystyrene with lightweight concrete screws straight through, or does it require sleeves and such that stone wool requires?
Regardless of the insulation type, how do you handle the eaves, do you line up the insulation against it or should you leave a ventilation gap, I'm thinking about condensation on the underside of the roof.
Best regards, Kim
It is difficult to give any sensible advice without knowing what the wall looks like today. Likewise, the roof construction.
There are many aspects. Foam plastic works best when there is no need for nailing battens, otherwise gaps can easily occur. Additionally, a lightweight concrete wall would need an insulation material with a higher density than what Styrofoam has, to achieve better heat capacity. I would recommend a stud construction with stone wool with as high a density as possible. If the outer roof has an air gap, you must not cover this, and therefore you cannot go all the way up.
I don't quite understand what Justus is writing!J justusandersson said:
I have personally added insulation and installed new wood paneling on an old house, it was in 1983. 80 mm foam board from Sundolitt, which was tongue and groove and could be installed over the entire wall surfaces. The joints became completely tight. Over the joints between the boards, we applied nail battens, regular 22x95 panel, nailed with 6" nails into the old wooden wall. The house became draft-free, and the electricity consumption decreased by 50%.
And, as the question was, no sleeves were used.
Once it starts burning indoors and it burns through the wall or out through a window, you have bigger problems than foam insulation.
I am currently insulating with foam on my concrete house, but I'm placing it between studs to avoid building out more than the previous metal facade.
I am currently insulating with foam on my concrete house, but I'm placing it between studs to avoid building out more than the previous metal facade.
You definitely don't want to have framework construction, and you don't need to have it with stone wool boards either. You don't want unnecessary thermal bridges. However, one can afford a couple of support beams. In case you want to expand a roof over the patio, for example.
Then there was the question about going up against the roof, whether it's bad for the underroof to go against it, like condensation and stuff. I only have gable ventilation, so no vents in the eaves to consider.
Then there was the question about going up against the roof, whether it's bad for the underroof to go against it, like condensation and stuff. I only have gable ventilation, so no vents in the eaves to consider.
Indeed, I forgot about that!X xdigger said:
Our house, built in the early 1800s as a fisherman's cottage, had no eave ventilation.
So there was no reason to leave an opening at the sub-roof.
But the roof construction was quite drafty anyway, so it was well-ventilated.
The kutterspån up there was fresh and fine
Got a very good price on the west coast slab, so that's what I went with. Ordered 160sqm 50mm insulation. Now the only question is whether an air gap is needed against the eaves, not for ventilation but considering condensation??