I have an old house with an extension from 1972. Since I now have to tear up all the walls and replace all the sills in this "newly built" section, I am facing concerns about the exterior wall construction.
Today it looks like this, (from inside to outside):
1. chipboard 20mm, 2. insulation 95mm, 3. rough sheathing, 4. asphalt board, 5. hanging tiles (a maintenance-free tile cladding that is hung on the facade).
My plan is to, in two years, with an extension, tear down the hanging tiles and add extra insulation to the exterior facade and put up a nicer wooden facade. But since all the boards inside the house are coming down, I thought I might review the walls from the inside. I was thinking of the following construction principle: (once again from inside to outside)...
1. Gypsum, 2. OSB board, 3. vapor barrier, 4. existing insulation, 5. rough sheathing and asphalt board to function as an air gap, 6. the hanging tiles to continue acting as wind and weather protection.
In two years, I plan to tear down the hanging tiles, build up with new studs on the asphalt board and rough sheathing, say I add on with 120 studs, wind protection, and new wooden facade.
How does my sketched plan sound... If anything sounds completely off #@ //*! I would appreciate it if you point it out before I overdo or make mistakes
With many thanks for all the help I know I will receive
Hmm, I think you should remove the asfaboard in connection with the additional insulation later.
It is admittedly not a homogeneous moisture barrier/block, but probably large enough to be undesirable considering you have a moisture barrier on the inside and a wind barrier on the outside.
There might be more opinions on this.
Interesting to see that there don't seem to be any moisture problems in the exterior wall despite the absence of a vapor barrier.
I don't think it's so strange that there are no moisture problems as Oldboy writes.
Today, the wall "only" has 95 mm of insulation which allows moisture to migrate out and dry.
Today's (or yesterday's) moisture problems due to the lack of a vapor barrier are largely due to high energy costs and therefore we insulate the walls to such an extent that they do not dry out satisfactorily on their own.
But it's like Oldboy says, namely interesting... To my knowledge, mineral wool is water-repellent, which should hinder moisture migration and drying regardless of thickness.
But regardless, the absence of a moisture barrier will soon be a thing of the past
A question... The insulation is directly against the sheathing, and in some places, the insulation is completely black. I assume this is because moisture from outside has come into contact with the insulation. What do you think, should I remove all the insulation and put up new one, or should I leave the old one in place?
I'll be honest and say that regarding black in insulation, my experience and knowledge are limited.
But here you have a thread that highlights the topic.
[link]
Best regards: Torpalainen
Thank you very much, Torpalainen!
I have read and feel somewhat more secure after reading your linked thread... Considering that the extension completely lacked a vapor barrier, we find a clear explanation for the black in the insulation...
Only now have I found the time to restore my walls! Timber plate and excavation work have taken up the summer. 😐
I won't tear down all the particle board from the walls but plan to place the moisture barrier directly against it... That is, 1. Plasterboard, 2. vapor barrier, 3. particle board, 4. insulation, 5. rough-sawn boards, 6. Asphalt board, and finally hanging tiles...
What do you think? Is it a bad idea to place the vapor barrier at the mentioned spot?
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