This might seem completely off the wall. But I'm aiming for an American log cabin feel with a dark stained finish.
I think beveled panels look wimpy. You can just tell that they're thin boards. Shouldn't you also have some sort of board behind it to be able to attach heavy items to the walls?
So, I was thinking of 220 studs as horizontal paneling. They give a suitably rugged look since they're not completely smooth like fine-planed panels. You can definitely attach heavy things to them. They’re also not significantly more expensive per sqm than beveled panels.
The problem is probably the gap between the studs. The wood can shrink over time and a gap could appear.
What do you think? Is it idiotic or can I succeed with the project?
In that case, it's better to use outdoor panels made of spruce, 23x220 mm. You can turn the fine-sawn or the dimension-planed side outward. 45x220 (which is planed on all sides) becomes bulky and doesn't significantly increase the hanging options. Both variants will shrink considerably in width. You must put asphalt paper or similar behind it to get a shadow effect. I have tested the 23x220 variant quite a lot, but it doesn't hold up well over time. If you want a lasting good result, you must use a tongue-and-groove and/or chamfered dried panel of pine. If you want properly wide boards, it usually requires an order from a specialist joinery. If you don't choose knot-free timber, it doesn't tend to be terribly expensive anyway.
This is how I did it in our living room, there was a 12mm chipboard before, so I painted it black, then I bought one-inch unedged boards from a nearby sawmill, didn't cost many kronor, and I got twice as much as I wanted but that allowed me to pick out the nicest pieces. Then I stained them brown. Screwed them behind the molding on one side and made a roughly sawn small strip of 6mm for the other side from the skirting to the ceiling molding that meets the wallpaper. They've been up for about 5 years now, the only negative is that it becomes a good place where dust tends to settle, but otherwise, I think it turned out well
No, I don't really remember what they cost, but if you ask someone who has an old bondsåg, they usually don't charge much if they're going to saw anyway, they usually have plenty of skog. I don't know if you have anyone nearby, but I have about 50m to the nearest saw. Many who have bondsågar can usually saw really nice timber and tend to be cheaper than the hardware store, the downside is that many don't have a planer if that's what you're after. But in this case, I wasn't after that.
Hello again. It seems unreasonably difficult to get hold of good unedged timber suitable for paneling here. What do you think about buying 195 timber and planing the edge? It will take a while, but I have time.
I bought pine flooring at Byggmax and chamfered the edges "carelessly" with an electric planer. It turned out quite nice and there were no issues with gaps.
Why not order what you want from your local lumberyard instead? A serious retailer will arrange it without any problem, and it won't be much more expensive than stocked items. You can also get it pre-painted and in the right length if you wish. By a serious retailer, I don't mean byggmax, but companies where the staff know something other than just restocking shelves.
Pine flooring sounds interesting. However, it becomes very expensive if it's going to be wide planks. That is, over 170mm.
But if I were to use regular boards, which direction should the heartwood face, towards the wall or outwards? So that it bends the right way. Because it probably will sooner or later.
The core moves less than the periphery, so the core towards the room should give a rounder profile when it dries. But you never really know with wood. It's safest to bring it in and dry it before you assemble.
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