I have just applied floor leveling and filled in uneven spots. It's getting close to laying tiles, and I would like some input from someone with experience. I've googled and watched videos, but I still want to check with you since this is my first time tiling.
What do I need to consider when it comes to laying the floor? I'm thinking of laying one row lengthwise towards the window and then continuing with the next row.
BUT the base for the leveling screws should be placed in the adhesive, and I think I should also attach the fitting for the adjacent row when I lay a tile. Because if the adhesive dries, I might not get back to it in time. Similarly, if I need to take a break, what has been laid will have time to dry. And when it comes to cutting, there will inevitably be more time between the tiles. How should I think about this?
What do I need to consider when it comes to laying the floor? I'm thinking of laying one row lengthwise towards the window and then continuing with the next row.
BUT the base for the leveling screws should be placed in the adhesive, and I think I should also attach the fitting for the adjacent row when I lay a tile. Because if the adhesive dries, I might not get back to it in time. Similarly, if I need to take a break, what has been laid will have time to dry. And when it comes to cutting, there will inevitably be more time between the tiles. How should I think about this?
When it comes to the order of laying, you have to keep in mind that you can't walk on the tiles for a day or so. Therefore, you need to ensure that you don't get trapped in a corner or suddenly can't access something you need. This makes it quite difficult for us in the forum to know if it's good to start by the window.
When our hallway floor was laid, the first 60 cm were laid along the wall with the door, so that you had to take a little leap to get in and out, on Friday, and then the rest was laid on Monday, and after that, the rule was to walk only along the wall.
When our hallway floor was laid, the first 60 cm were laid along the wall with the door, so that you had to take a little leap to get in and out, on Friday, and then the rest was laid on Monday, and after that, the rule was to walk only along the wall.
Thank you. Good input.BirgitS said:
Not being able to walk on them is no problem since we have the laundry room at one end with a separate entrance. Likewise, at the other end of the house, we can go through the winter garden.
But very important once you're there..
So it wasn't done all at once, but divided into two.
So I'm thinking that I can lay all the full 60 tiles (if I have time) on Monday. And then come back with the pieces that need to be cut at my leisure.
Do you remember how long you should wait before you CAN walk on them? Or is it maybe dependent on the fix manufacturer?
It's been almost 10 years, so I don't remember, but it's reasonable to assume it depends on how quickly the adhesive cures, which can vary between products.Dr Benz said:
I make no claims about how one should do it, but when I installed a balcony at home last year where perhaps two rows were completed per evening, I had to place a screw pin per joint in the last tile and then clear away the mortar around it to continue the next day. It dried fairly quickly when I was working outside and I had to double coat each tile and ensure full adhesion to avoid the risk of it cracking over the winter.
Ah, that looks good. But I'm not quite following why you need to clear the fix if the pin is already there? Then I see you've placed the screws in the corners. On the overview of my screws, they are positioned a bit away from the corners. I'm afraid you might crack a corner? But maybe it's hard to get them completely even otherwise?APR said:
An important thing I did today was to lay out some tiles to get an idea of where the seams will be and how straight the walls are, etc. It was heavy work but a very useful lesson. A 1 mm adjustment at one end makes a big difference at the other end. Even though they land approximately as I had planned, it was important to find the lines especially in the L-shape to be able to build further on that in the room.
Luckily, the wall towards the window and the wall towards the door are 90 degrees. So now the starting tile is marked at the parquet floor and the length line towards the window is drawn out.
Sunday evening will be primer, and then the spectacle really begins...
Luckily, the wall towards the window and the wall towards the door are 90 degrees. So now the starting tile is marked at the parquet floor and the length line towards the window is drawn out.
Sunday evening will be primer, and then the spectacle really begins...
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My version of the pin has a foot on each side and to achieve the same level as an already attached plate, I left half the foot outside so the next row could use the foot, so to speak. There couldn't be fixed there as the hardened material would have been in the way for the next day's laying. In my description from tebo spinn, it wasn't explained how to interrupt the laying, it was clearly intended to lay everything in one go. I didn't manage to crack any plates. It was regular granite ceramics from Bauhaus.
Exactly, that's how my feet are too. But I think you just put mortar under the tile you're laying at the moment. But if I understand you correctly, there will still be a bit of mortar that gets squeezed out and you have to scrape off for the next tile.
Ok, that's good to know. How even was the surface for you? For me, it can differ by a few mm on a tile because I cast too large an area/didn't keep up with the first section.
Ok, that's good to know. How even was the surface for you? For me, it can differ by a few mm on a tile because I cast too large an area/didn't keep up with the first section.
Best answer
Completely OT: Is this "yeah but exactly" youth language? It has even reached the radio's least talented reporter. Sounds extremely childish.
I had the surface within 1-2mm because I value my time at 0kr. Then I used tebos white rubber hammer and suction cup. If you were a bit sloppy with the back buttering on the slab, it was easy to either knock down the slab or lift it up and butter it again. I guess you shouldn't force the slab level with the screws/shims if there's too much difference after you've laid it and rocked it a bit, because then there's a risk of cracking a corner.
Hobby electrician
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Could have been worse! Imagine if it had happened to the radio's most talented.T Thomas_Blekinge said:
Asså! Herregud! 😉
Bad enough. How can one express oneself so stupidly just to gain half a second? Have you ever heard the most experienced foreign correspondents speak in this way?R Robin Lindberg said:
Have you laid out tiles for the entire length and width of the room? So you know if, for example, you need to cut the last row of tiles? If cutting needs to be done, you might want to experiment with whether to cut equally on both sides or only on one side depending on what is most visible or least disruptive before you start.