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I'm in the process of slowly setting up a living room on the upper floor of my cottage. The upper floor didn't have a finished floor when I moved in, only chipboard panels. The upper floor has a sloped ceiling where a wall has been built about 40-50 cm from where the ceiling meets the house wall. When I now sawed and lifted the chipboard near the wall, I've noticed a very large variation in the distance between the floor joists. In some places it's 600, but as in the example in the picture, it's just over 1000.

My thought is to lay a plank floor in this room (which unfortunately has already been purchased so a thicker floor is not an option), but I am unsure how I should tackle this to minimize deflection in the floor. Adding additional joists wouldn’t have been a problem, if the inner wall wasn’t there and in the way (see my "incredible" sketch which hopefully conveys what I mean), so that I had something to attach the joists to.

Could there be any suitable, or at least acceptable solution to my problem that doesn't require me to tear down the wall?
 
  • View of an attic floor with exposed yellow insulation and unevenly spaced wooden joists beneath particle board.
  • Diagram of a room with a sloped ceiling showing an inner wall positioned away from the outer wall, labeled "Inner Ceiling," "Inner Wall," and "Joists.

Best answer

What is the span of your beams? Do they rest only on the outer wall or is there a load-bearing wall somewhere in the middle?

It's often possible to insert more joists in the floor, but you can skip the part that is in the attic to keep it simple. To do this, you first install blocking in the wide sections, meaning a transverse floor joist that in your example would be about 1000mm long. Once these are in place, you have something to attach the new floor beams to. Do you follow what I mean?
 
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A Albans doktor said:
What is the span length of your beams? Do they rest only on the outer wall, or is there a supporting wall somewhere in the middle?

It's usually possible to insert more joists into the floor, but you can skip the part that is in the attic space to keep it simpler. To do this, you first install noggings in the wide bays, that is a cross-sectional floor joist in your example would be about 1000mm long. Once these are in place, you have something to attach the new floor joists to. Do you see what I mean?
The total span (outer wall to outer wall) is approximately 6000 mm. On the first floor, there is a wall located about 1/3 into the beams.

I understand what you mean, and it sounds perfectly logical. I suppose the noggings and the joists should be fastened with joist hangers?
 
K kristoffer.nilsson said:
The total span (outer wall to outer wall) is approximately 6000 mm. On the first floor, there is a wall located about 1/3 into the beams.

I understand what you mean, and it sounds completely logical. I assume that the noggings and studs should be attached with joist hangers?
Yes, the easiest way is to use joist hangers, but it's also possible to use thicker nails/screws where accessible, if you prefer.
 
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Common construction angles with anchor screws work with..
 
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A Albans doktor said:
Yes, using joist hangers will be the easiest, but you can also use nails/screws of a heavier model where you can reach, if you prefer.
That sounds great. Thank you so much!
 
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