Zero-energy Attefall. How would you have done it?

[fribygg]

I would argue that it doesn't matter where the condensation point occurs as long as there is a vapor barrier on the inside.

I need to think a little more about the heat storage. You can, for example, argue that it is faster to heat up a cold house if the insulation is inside and the mass outside.

I would argue that the "timmret" likely has a shorter lifespan if you put a vapor barrier and insulation on the inside.

 

[Ulltand]

I would argue that the "timber" is likely to have a shorter lifespan if you add moisture barriers and insulation on the inside.

Why is that? The forest is full of trees that are hundreds of years old. A typical wood facade doesn't fall apart just because there's plenty of insulation on the inside?

 

[fribygg]

A regular wooden facade doesn't fall apart just because there's plenty of insulation on the inside?

You're right about that!

 

[Robot2.0]

It is difficult to insulate log houses. Either all the vertical studs need to be mounted on sliding brackets or let them stand for several years to settle completely.

 

[fribygg]

The forest is full of centuries-old trees.

Even if this is the case, with the current forestry policy, one can hardly harvest high-quality centuries-old forest to build Attefall houses. You are likely limited to common cultivated timber and can scarcely build a house from fully adequate dense-grown timber like previous generations. Today's timber, in combination with moisture barriers and insulation, makes a regular ventilated panel facade more suitable.

 

[din granne]

I've started considering building a zero-energy house in the format of an Attefall house. A lot of floor space would be lost with 50 cm wall insulation, but perhaps 20 sqm left inside and a loft of 10 sqm. The roof could be a shed roof integrated with solar panels. Roof insulation might be an issue with the limited building height if you want a loft. With windows with U-values down to 0.7, one should be able to create a bright building that doesn't require much electricity for lighting. The best heating source in such a small house should be a LLVP. Demand-controlled ventilation of the peculiar format that switches to and from air in the same channel with storage media for heat energy. You want a fireplace if you have a lot with many trees, but I suppose you can't count that in the calculation, can you?

How will the building be used?

 

[Ulltand]

How will the building be used?

In the long term, as a modest permanent residence but more for now as a summer cottage with the possibility of temporarily heating it during the winter.

 

[Ulltand]

It is tricky to insulate timber houses. Either all the standing studs need to be mounted on sliding brackets or be left for several years to settle completely.

Good aspect! We have an uninsulated timber house and it has settled over time.

 

[din granne]

In the long term for a modest permanent residence, but more now as a summer cottage with the possibility to heat temporarily during winter.

The principle for zero-energy houses, passive houses, plus-energy houses... is that you utilize the supplied free energy in combination with a very tight climate shell.

To achieve this, it needs to be a house you live in permanently.

 

[Ulltand]

Even if that is the case, with the current forest policy, you can hardly harvest high-quality centuries-old forest to build Attefall houses, you are likely limited to commonly cultivated timber and can hardly, like previous generations, log a house with quality tight-grained wood.

Today's timber combined with moisture barriers and insulation probably makes a regular ventilated panel façade more suitable.

That is probably true, but there is, for example, linseed oil as wood protection. Maybe the timber cracks more, but what does it matter?

 

[Ulltand]

The principle of zero-energy houses, passive houses, plus-energy houses... is to utilize the provided free energy in combination with a very tight building envelope.

To achieve this, it needs to be a house you live in permanently.

But if you're not there, it can get cold, right?

 

[fribygg]

In the long term for a modest permanent residence but more now as a summer cottage with the possibility to temporarily heat during the winter.

Then you should carefully consider the choice of moisture barrier, plastic is risky if the inside of the house becomes colder than the outside temp.

 

[Ulltand]

Then you should carefully consider the choice of moisture barrier, as plastic can be risky if the inside of the house becomes colder than the outside temperature.

That's true, but we intend to maintain a bit of maintenance heat. It doesn't require much with a LLVP and 24 well-insulated sqm. But it's not the same as turning off the heat completely as I might have incorrectly suggested.

 

[fribygg]

It is difficult to insulate log houses. Either all the vertical studs need to be mounted on sliding brackets or let them stand for several years to settle completely.

It's just the walls that are difficult to insulate, which is why you choose coarse wall logs and insulate the foundation and joists adequately instead if you want to build a log house.

 

[fribygg]

Have started thinking about building a zero-energy house in Attefall format.

Are you planning to construct an Attefallshus within a detailed plan and are bound by the Attefall rules? If it's a house in the 25-30m3 size you're considering, I think it's better to apply for a building permit and not be so restricted, and if you're building outside the plan, the Attefall rules don't apply anyway.