Hello. I'm posting pictures from the original drawings. Might be fun for someone to look at.
This is a Ytong house built in '58 :) Full of radiant concrete ;)

I'm considering possibly tearing down a basement wall. The wall that is to the right of the laundry room in the picture. Behind it, we currently have a sauna that we don't use.

As someone who isn't an expert, I believe that the load-bearing walls are the facade walls and the wall that runs down the middle of the house, and that all other interior walls can just be taken down if desired.
Am I wrong? And if so, it would be very interesting to know how the construction works :)

Happy Easter
 
  • Blueprint of a 1958 Ytong house showing basement plan with rooms: garage, storage, utility rooms, and sauna. Considering removing a non-load-bearing wall.
  • Cross-section drawing of a 1958 Ytong house showing structural details and dimensions, including a garage labeled with measurements.
  • Blueprint of a Ytong house built in 1958, showing the floor plan with labeled rooms like vardagsrum, sovrum, kök, and syplats.
  • Architectural floor plan of a Ytong house built in 1958. Shows detailed layout including rooms like vardagsrum, kök, and sovrum for renovation reference.
Would also guess that it's only the hjärteväggen you need to consider.
 
  • Like
BirgitS
  • Laddar…
BirgitS
However, the portion of the wall closest to the exterior wall may be necessary to prevent all the soil masses outside from pushing the exterior wall inward. In other threads, it has been suggested to retain 0.5 - 1 m of the wall you want to remove.
 
BirgitS BirgitS said:
On the other hand, the part of the wall that is closest to the outer wall may be necessary to prevent all the soil on the outside from pushing the outer wall inward. In other threads, it has been suggested to save 0.5 - 1 m of the wall you want to remove.
Okay. It almost sounds unbelievable that a lightweight concrete wall of 0.5 meters could help with soil pressure? to prevent a load-bearing wall from collapsing inward?
 
BirgitS
I am not a structural engineer, and it might be a good idea to contact one, but it will be difficult for the exterior wall to be pushed inward if there is something ensuring it remains 90 degrees between the floor and the exterior wall as well as between the roof and the exterior wall. Whether half a meter is sufficient in your case, I don't know.
 
Click here to reply
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.