Wooden house built in '83, help to see if wall is load-bearing

[AndersGrusell]

Living in a two-story house from '83. Considering rearranging the walls on the upper floor and, instead of two equally sized bedrooms, creating one large and one smaller bedroom. But now I'm wondering if there's a risk that the middle wall, which separates the two larger bedrooms, is load-bearing? The roof ridge runs from left to right on the drawing, so the direction matches in that sense. The wall in question is framed with 45x45 studs.

ADDITION:
I have also done the "saw test," meaning I sawed through one of the studs and there was no tendency for pinching, and the gap remains when I remove the saw.

 

[justusandersson]

The partitions on the upper floor are not load-bearing. The beams between the upper floor and the cold attic are so-called collar ties, whose primary function is to prevent the trusses from being pushed outwards. They are mainly subjected to horizontal tensile forces. Only if you store heavy items in the cold attic can vertical loads occur on the collar ties.

 

[AndersGrusell]

The partitions on the upper floor are not load-bearing. The beams between the upper floor and the cold attic are known as collar ties, whose primary function is to prevent the rafters from being pushed out towards the sides. They are mainly subjected to horizontal tensile forces. Only if you store heavy items in the cold attic can vertical loads occur on the collar ties.

Thanks for that answer!

 

[ricebridge]

Old jungle proverb:
Wall in the length direction of the house = load-bearing
Wall in the transverse direction of the house = non-load-bearing
i.e., load-bearing walls run parallel to the roof ridge/perpendicular to the rafters.
Then there are plenty of exceptions that prove the rule, but as a rule of thumb, it suffices.