Why cc45 instead of cc40?

[joakim_j]

My constructor has specified that the load-bearing interior walls in my extension should have studs 120x45 c24 at cc 45, with 12 mm k-plywood on both sides. Seems excessive to me, but never mind. My question is, wouldn't it be better to stud at cc40? Then you get a little more flexibility with how you place the boards, and it shouldn't be more complicated to insulate, I think.

Am I missing something? Is there any advantage to cc 45 besides saving about one stud per wall?

 

[fribygg]

It is wise to adapt to the measurements of the insulation and wall panels if you don't want a lot of waste.

 

[Daniel 109]

There are 90skivor. But you might be aiming for 120skivor, then 40 is better.

 

[Tomtom79]

My designer has specified that the load-bearing interior walls in my extension should have studs of 120x45 c24 at cc 45, with 12 mm k-plywood on both sides. Seems excessive to me, but whatever. My question is whether it wouldn't be better to stud at cc40? Then you have a bit more flexibility in how you position the boards, and it shouldn't be more complicated to insulate, I think.

Am I missing something? Is there any advantage to cc 45 apart from saving maybe one stud per wall?

Boards are normally 600, 900, or 1200mm wide. Therefore, you stud with 600 or 450mm c-c. Hence, insulation is also sold in widths of 560mm or 410 for wooden studs and the corresponding for steel studs. (gap + 5mm)

See example:
https://www.isover.se/sok?query=träregelskiva&f[0]=content_type:product

 

[Tomtom79]

There are 90skivor. But maybe you're aiming for 120skivor, then 40 is better.

Nah, then you have to cut all the isolerskivor lengthwise to fit them in. A whole lot of unnecessary work. If you have c-c 450, you buy 9000 skivor, if you want 1200 skivor, you choose c-c 600.

 

[joakim_j]

There are 90skivor. But maybe you're aiming for 120skivor, then 40 is better.

Yes, or you can put a 240-skiva down.

 

[Tomtom79]

Yes, or that you can lay down a 240-disc.

Trust me, you want the studs at standard distances. All building material is designed to be quick and easy to use the right way. Installing insulation, for example, is incredibly fast if the studs are placed correctly. If they are placed incorrectly, it's an endless job of measuring, cutting, and fiddling. Combined with the fact that it gets sweaty and itchy, you quickly regret it!

If you can just feed in the insulation and cut the length of the last piece, you'll save a lot.

 

[Huddingebo]

Yes, or that you can lay a 240-panel down.

Works if you have 240 in "ceiling height".
If you have 250 which is becoming more common, even 260cm, it gets messy.
Better then with standing panels available in lengths 250, 260, or 270cm.

 

[joakim_j]

Works if you have 240 in "ceiling height".
If you have 250, which is more common, even 260cm, it gets messy.
Better then with standing panels which are available in lengths of 250, 260, or 270cm

This is in the basement, so it's only 220 in ceiling height, so it will have to be cut anyway, but I understand.

 

[joakim_j]

It seems like it's much better with cc 45. Nice since I've already cut the kortlingar to 40.5 cm

 

[fribygg]

It seems that it's much better with cc 45. Nice since I have already cut the noggins to 40.5 cm

Are you going to have plywood on both sides AND noggins?

 

[joakim_j]

Yes, I made up the kortlingar myself... it's because there won't be any plyfa coming until next year and I don't want the studs to warp in the meantime. Maybe unnecessary, but it doesn't cost anything.

 

[fribygg]

Yes, the short studs I've come up with myself... it's because no plywood will come until next year, and I don't want the studs to warp in the meantime. Unnecessary perhaps, but it costs nothing

It costs time, both to put them in and when they're in the way of electricity, pipes, and insulation.

 

[Tomtom79]

It might be an idea to just place a horizontal rule on each side of the vertical ones and screw them in. Not to cut out and attach between them, that is. First of all, it is much less work, and secondly, it's easy to remove when the plywood is to be applied. And electrical/wiring/insulation are not affected.

 

[joakim_j]

Hmm, yeah, that might be enough. And I've cut a bunch of kortlingar... but from leftover pieces, though.