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87 replies
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87 replies
Wall mount extends 65 cm with molly bolt?
Okay, but it won't look very nice when a large MDF board protrudes from the drywall; are there no other alternatives? It's very secure right now, but where will we be in two months?M Masthugg said:
Okay, does it matter that the drywall at home is new, for everything to hold I mean?lilllasrne said:
I have done this myself in all rooms.. i.e., when I proceed with house renovation, I tear down the drywall, insulate, frame, drywall, joint tape, spackle, new and fresh.
It's not a lot of work and if you're going to put MDF/plywood on top anyway, you might as well tear down the drywall where the TV is going to be and frame with wood/drywall... after that, joint tape, spackle, paint finish... furthermore, you get a new feature wall to freshen up the home
What's on the other side of the wall? If you're really lucky, it's a closet, attic, or other space that isn't really visible. In that case, you can use a through "bolt" and put a brace on the other side of the wall. Otherwise, I agree with the previous comment, if you regularly touch it, it will wear down over time, a month, ten months??
leby said:
What's on the other side of the wall? If you're really lucky, it's a closet, attic, or other space that isn't actually visible. In that case, you can take a penetrating "bolt" and put a support on the other side of the wall. Otherwise, I agree with the earlier statement that if you regularly move it, it will wear down over time, a month, ten months??
Not good behind. Can I tear the drywall between two studs and replace everything with an MDF board? I shouldn't tear all the drywall, just the part between the studs that the wall mount will sit in, right? How do I do this? Is it difficult?leby said:
What's on the other side of the wall? If you're really lucky, it's a closet, attic, or other space that isn't actually visible. In that case, you can take a penetrating "bolt" and put a support on the other side of the wall. Otherwise, I agree with the earlier statement that if you regularly move it, it will wear down over time, a month, ten months??
Cut an appropriately sized opening in the plasterboard between two studs. I assume the current studs are vertical, i.e., from floor to ceiling. Insert two cross studs (screwed diagonally) into the existing ones. Place these two cross studs at an appropriate distance apart so they fit the mounting points in the TV stand and align with the current studs.Tegge said:
To be able to remount the plasterboard solidly, it might be necessary to install framing as a 'frame' in the hole too. It's possible you can cut the plasterboard along the middle of the current vertical studs, but there's a risk of cutting into a screw, and you'll need an appropriate tool (like a Fein or blade).
Screw the plasterboard back in place. Fill and paint.
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Okay. But if I leave the mount glued to the wall with my current setup and never rotate it, will it hold?A aekeberg said:Cut a suitably sized hole in the plasterboard between two studs. I imagine the current studs are vertical, i.e., from floor to ceiling. Insert two horizontal studs between them (screw them at an angle) into the existing ones. Place these two horizontal studs at a suitable distance from each other so they match the mounting points in the TV bracket and are in line with the current studs.
To be able to reattach the plasterboard firmly, it might be necessary to install a 'frame' in the hole as well. You might also saw the plasterboard right in the middle of the current vertical studs, but there is a high risk of cutting into screws, and then you'll need a suitable tool (like a Fein or blade).
Screw the plasterboard back in place. Fill and paint.
Not my expertise, unfortunately. I responded on how you could reinforce the wall in a relatively simple way...Tegge said:
At least in my opinion, it's not a super complicated thing, but it depends on how handy you are. You need a screwdriver, a handsaw to cut the studs, preferably a Japanese saw to cut the drywall (although a handsaw probably works too), a level, and a putty knife. Just the usual 'good to have' tools!
A aekeberg said:Not my expertise unfortunately. Answered on how you could reinforce the wall in a relatively simple way...
At least in my opinion, it's not a super complicated thing, but it depends on how handy you are. You need a screwdriver, a hand saw to cut the rules, preferably a Japanese saw to cut the drywall (a hand saw could work too), a level, and a putty knife. Just common 'good to have' tools!
I'm relatively handy. How much would it cost and what is the time investment?A aekeberg said:Not my expertise unfortunately. Answered on how you could reinforce the wall in a relatively simple way...
At least in my opinion, it's not a super complicated thing, but it depends on how handy you are. You need a screwdriver, a hand saw to cut the rules, preferably a Japanese saw to cut the drywall (a hand saw could work too), a level, and a putty knife. Just common 'good to have' tools!
Alternatively, you can take a longer plywood board that spans between two studs, approximately 70x20 cm in size. Attach it to the studs and then you have something solid to screw into. Paint it the color of the wall afterward. That's what I did.
Rickard.
Member
· Riktiga Norrland
· 7 407 posts
Rickard.
Member
- Riktiga Norrland
- 7,407 posts
What does the mount look like? Can't you insert some drywall anchors to complement what you already have, spring toggles or the like I have quite good confidence in where the attachment doesn't need to be neat.
In the worst-case scenario, if the mount starts to loosen, you should be quick to fix it according to one of the other good suggestions here.
In the worst-case scenario, if the mount starts to loosen, you should be quick to fix it according to one of the other good suggestions here.
Rickard.ag said:
What does the mount look like? Can't you install some drywall anchors to supplement what you already have, spring toggles or something similar, I have quite a bit of confidence in where the attachment doesn't need to be neat.
In the worst case, if the mount starts to get loose, you need to be quick to fix it according to some of the other good suggestions here.
Here is a link to my mount:Rickard.ag said:
https://www.netonnet.se/art/ljud-bi...8PWAbPs15d_5zy-ocYlnlhcRL5KHeVkwaAsaGEALw_wcB
There is a Molly and wood screw at the top, in the middle a Molly, and at the bottom a Molly that broke somehow. Should I wait and hold off, or is it just about tearing down what I just installed? It's that mount and a 55” that weighs 13 kg that's mounted. I also rotate it 90 degrees quite frequently, then I need to pull it out completely and then rotate.
You can get studs and filler for about a hundred. Do you perhaps have any leftover wall paint? Otherwise, a small sample jar for an additional hundred.Tegge said:
Time? Maybe a couple of hours of effective work time (if everything goes as it should) but then a bit of waiting time between filler applications and painting...
Insert an MDF board between two studs then? How is that done?A aekeberg said:
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It feels like many people agree with me, i.e., tearing down studs, drywalling, taping, painting..... even if you were to find another solution, it still feels like working around it would take just as long and be half as good...
speaking from my own renovations
a Saturday and 500SEK
speaking from my own renovations
a Saturday and 500SEK